Purty!

Thanks :) I'm hanging this one in the Co-op!

Just as a friendly fellow stained glass artist heads up: Always put your hangers on a leadline so that the weight of the glass is supported by the leadline and NOT by the copper tape. Copper tape is just only -tape- and therefore not all that strong. It may have some metal over it but you're still only relying on -tape adhesive- to hold onto the glass and tape adhesive is not very strong, especially when subjected to heat (such as glass gets in a window), time, and gravity. Stuff like this, where its connected at a piece and not on a leadline, WILL pull off over time and your glass will come crashing down and it sucks (I've been there, made pieces like this, and repaired work by others who've done the same). I'd put a zinc border on this instead or a frame or something similar that's stronger than the tape! I think a Zinc border would also really help to accent your lovely art in any case.

Source: I worked in a professional stained glass studio making church windows for nearly a decade and fixed many a piece that had faults such as hinge points and bad hangers.

Hey! Thanks for the tip! The whole thing is actually framed in Venture Tape reinforcing strip. Straightening it and then soldering it flush (without it trying to pull the adhesive tape away from the glass) was a bear, but it worked out in the end.

Re-strip will help a little but not much. Re-strip is mainly for things that bend, so generally using it when running across the middle of a panel to keep it from flexing or running across the edge of where an unavoidable hinge or around a fragile piece that might crack with any flexion (like a dangling tail). It does not help with the tape pulling away from a long unsupported edge, such as you have on the left side. Gravity is still putting all the weight on the tape and re-strip won't make the tape adhesive stronger, it'll just help to slightly distribute the weight a bit more and if you were trying to keep it from pulling the adhesive tape when you soldered it that's already a bad sign since it means it will still have that sprung aspect in it and likely pull away after... You want a solid frame (zinc, wood, etc) to distribute that better and make it be able to stand the test of time better.

And yes restrip is a bear to work with hahaha I do not envy you wrapping it around the entire thing. Zinc would given you a better result with less.. finger burning I suspect. (I dunno about you but I burn myself a lot more when working with re-strip than I do normally but I'm also a klutz.)

Ugh right? I wanted to go with zinc, but materials and the right tools to work with it were pretty cost prohibitive at the time, so I went with my copper strip.
As for burns and the like, my bane are the "copper foil papercuts," because I hate using my wrapper and burnisher, and do everything by hand and fingernail, lol. (That, and remembering to use my bench brush, and not the back of my hand to wipe off my cutting surface. mega-lol)

Cost prohibitive? Curious, What was (is?) making using zinc cost prohibitive? It can be cut with lead dikes if you're really pressed (which are a standard stained glass tool) or even better a <$10 hacksaw & miter box (https://www.amazon.com/HAUTMEC-hacksaw-adjustable-cutting-HT0034-PL/dp/B07CSK7TCD/).

I don't think I've ever gotten a papercut from copper foil. What kind of wrapper and burnisher do you use? I'm picky so I just use my hands to wrap and for burnishing I use a flat plastic fid (this one in fact! The top one: https://www.amazon.com/Studio-Pro-c.....p/B000SWTLO6/) or even better, a sharpie (the cap is a great fid!) Owch to using your hand to wipe the cutting surface. I've never made that mistake thankfully. Eesh. Did see my boss slice his wrist wide open on accident when he slipped with a lead knife though... ooowww.

My fid is exactly like the red one. I can't find my wrappers online any more, one's a handheld wrapper/crimper, another is a worktop mounted Gladstar with two rolls, and the third is a P.I.T.A. "workstation" that I never use. The handheld is fine for larger pieces, and it makes foiling inside curves easier, but for small pieces, I just use my hands.
I 100% agree about the sharpies. When they get too scratched up to use, they are stupid cheap and easy to replace.