Well, meet my 1978 Camaro LT. She has a 305 V8 under it's rusted hood. I got her very cheap...but...I was hoping the rust would be an issue I could save up for and have fixed, removed, quarter panels etc. Looking at her extensively...not sure if it will be TOO expensive to save up for. I was told $6,000 roughly by one place, but, no gonn just take that as a be all end all.
Sooo any gearhead furs out there got any ideas, opinions? I have never done bodywork myself and sadly not lots of room in the garage to do so. I am in Philadelphia if you know anyone that might be able to help out, know a shop, have parts, etc.
Just trying to guage if it is worth even keeping her or just selling to then save up more over tim to get another with little to NO rust. Sadly I was kinda stars in my eyes when I saw her, now am lookin all over and seeing rust in lotta places...rear quarter panels, under the doors, inide wells, trunk lid, one floor pan prolly is too.
You can toss me a note f you might have some ideas, help, etc. Figure might be enough gearheads out there might gimme a hand or idea what I got here. Thanks!
So yeah, the engine runs fine, interior is good shape, seats all good, all guages work, tac, lights etc. Just yeah, RUST! If you can show this to any gearhead furs you know, I'd apreciate it!
Sooo any gearhead furs out there got any ideas, opinions? I have never done bodywork myself and sadly not lots of room in the garage to do so. I am in Philadelphia if you know anyone that might be able to help out, know a shop, have parts, etc.
Just trying to guage if it is worth even keeping her or just selling to then save up more over tim to get another with little to NO rust. Sadly I was kinda stars in my eyes when I saw her, now am lookin all over and seeing rust in lotta places...rear quarter panels, under the doors, inide wells, trunk lid, one floor pan prolly is too.
You can toss me a note f you might have some ideas, help, etc. Figure might be enough gearheads out there might gimme a hand or idea what I got here. Thanks!
So yeah, the engine runs fine, interior is good shape, seats all good, all guages work, tac, lights etc. Just yeah, RUST! If you can show this to any gearhead furs you know, I'd apreciate it!
Category Photography / Still Life
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 800 x 1786px
File Size 1.14 MB
That Chrysler ain't that bad looking. try this one: http://www.remarkablecars.com/main/.....perial-1-1.jpg
With classic cars your always better to buy the best you can afford. Trust me. Fixer uppers seem like good deals till you start getting nickeled and dimed by them. Don't ask me how I know. But moving on. For 6k you can buy a nice welder and some panels and fix her yourself. Just depends on what your looking for in the end. A daily driver or a show car?
I'm lookin at a driver, not a show car at all. Yeah, I mighta bit off more than I can chew...was thinkn more like $2K in body work...again..stars in my eyes when I got her. BUT she was not much soo even if I sold her...I thnk I'd get bout $1,500 alone for what is good bout her.
Close...
My race car is an 89 Chevy Camaro...painted like a Tiger
http://www.furaffinity.net/view/7606777/
and my hotrod is an 84 Monte SS
http://www.furaffinity.net/view/2348509/
And now you can see why Id rather have YOU pose next to it then me...
My race car is an 89 Chevy Camaro...painted like a Tiger
http://www.furaffinity.net/view/7606777/
and my hotrod is an 84 Monte SS
http://www.furaffinity.net/view/2348509/
And now you can see why Id rather have YOU pose next to it then me...
Rust is everywhere here, I live on the west coast of France and I am use to paint every piece of metal here with this product:
http://www.owatrol.com/index.php?langue=en&page=produits-rustol-owatrol
There's probably something like that in USA... It's really efficient to stop rust ;)
http://www.owatrol.com/index.php?langue=en&page=produits-rustol-owatrol
There's probably something like that in USA... It's really efficient to stop rust ;)
Most cost effective option would be to find a roller (body with not engine or transmission) for cheap and then scavange all the good parts from your 78. Combine the decent body with the good parts from yours into one car. Your going to spend way more money than you could get out of the 78 restoring it. Unless it hold some sentimental value or something, I'd look for a better starting point or find a second car.
Not for one that will need major repair. Decent paint jobs can't be done for what Maaco would like you to believe. The $299 job they advertise all the time is just paint sprayed over the old. By the time they add prep work, minor repair, sanding and polishing etc you're looking at, at least, $1200-$1500 for a basic job. The quote of 6k for this car probably includes cutting off, and rewelding new sheet metal onto the car, media blasting of some sort, sealing, body work, paint, etc. Really if you only want to spend $2k on the body your going to have to find a rust free one and start from there.
Like I said, you'd be better off taking the engine and any salvageable parts from the red car (ie interior,chrome and body trim, glass,dash if uncracked, and spare parts) and using them on a roller. Depending on year and model rollers can be had for anywhere from a few hundred dollars to as most $2 or $3K. Expect a roller that cost into the thousands though to be in good shape, possible partially restored and really only need an engine to be a good driver
Like I said, you'd be better off taking the engine and any salvageable parts from the red car (ie interior,chrome and body trim, glass,dash if uncracked, and spare parts) and using them on a roller. Depending on year and model rollers can be had for anywhere from a few hundred dollars to as most $2 or $3K. Expect a roller that cost into the thousands though to be in good shape, possible partially restored and really only need an engine to be a good driver
Just from the pics you posted this car is going to need, new rocker panels *cut out weld in new*, new rear quarters *cut old weld new* new doors, new floor boards/pan, sections of the windshield frame cut out and repaired, new heater cowl, and whatever other metal that will need to be replaced that is hidden like under carpet and behind other panels.
Yeah and sometimes it just takes tearing into one to see just how deep the hole in your wallet would be. I did the same thing with an old old VW I owned. The more work I did on it, the more I found it needed. If anything, in the future ask the seller if they'll let you take the car for an inspection. Let a mechanic look at it and run it by a body shop. Tell them your plans or what you want for the car and let them give you a reality check. It's hard to step back and look at things like purchasing an old iconic car objectively. Most people will look at what the car could be or once was not what it is as a project/expense *guilty myself*
Good luck with your venture whatever you decide to keep or sell it and hope you have fun getting this one fixed or or looking for a new one.
Good luck with your venture whatever you decide to keep or sell it and hope you have fun getting this one fixed or or looking for a new one.
Personally I'd sell it, I did the exact same thing with an old Beetle and that sort of rust is a wallet killer, fell in love with it and as soon as I got it home I started to see more and more rust. Luckily those particular Camaros aren't too rare and they're becoming increasingly popular, so you'll be able to find one that has a lot less rust and is only a little rough, just enough roughness to get fixed and make you feel a little more connected to the car :3 Even if you don't do it yourself it does feel good to see your money steadily change your baby into what you knew it could be or wanted it to be.
Sadly anything rust through has to be replaced with 'new' metal. One of the inner doors looks like its trim is coming off as well. The 6,000 estimate sounds about right if they are going to restore it fully. Sadly resale of this car in its current shape may only net the low end of kelly blue book prices.
Yeah, it was definitly a..WOW and din think much when I got it...oh well.Thinkin Craigslist for $1500 since the engine runs, interior is nice, all guages and lights work, original factory mags and American Racing wheels and yeah. total original car. For a parts/project car I might find a buyer.
It'd be cheaper to get another IMHO, I love cars and can understand some sentimental value they have. I read your description and it sounds like it's something you just got...
Gen II Camaros are fairly easy to come across for not much money, especially a late 70's model, here's an example:
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/.....330679781.html
IF you desperately want to keep it, you could have a shop replace the rear quarter and rocker panels, while you could replace some items yourself, like the doors/hood etc. Then with such things as surface rust (like that near the truck lid hinge) clean off as much rust as possible and cover it up with some rust inhibitor/paint to stop it from spreading. It won't be the best looking car, but it'll still be the same.
Gen II Camaros are fairly easy to come across for not much money, especially a late 70's model, here's an example:
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/.....330679781.html
IF you desperately want to keep it, you could have a shop replace the rear quarter and rocker panels, while you could replace some items yourself, like the doors/hood etc. Then with such things as surface rust (like that near the truck lid hinge) clean off as much rust as possible and cover it up with some rust inhibitor/paint to stop it from spreading. It won't be the best looking car, but it'll still be the same.
loosk great for its age, not much rust, chassi looks intact and not to much bodywork to do (yes im not sarcastic i seen WAY worse cars and been part in mending em)
to go on body work there is a show form uk that you should se then its "a car is reborn" as they restore a very beaten up E-type or the sequal "a MG is born" with they restore a rotten MGB ( http://www.streetfire.net/video/an-.....e-4_730547.htm )
to go on body work there is a show form uk that you should se then its "a car is reborn" as they restore a very beaten up E-type or the sequal "a MG is born" with they restore a rotten MGB ( http://www.streetfire.net/video/an-.....e-4_730547.htm )
nice car, the back wong looks the most worst, most of the rust areas are from trapped water, where it has no where to go.
best thing to do is to go into your magazine store and buy some classic car mags, look up on how they do resto's.
parts should be easy to find SURF THE NET TIME! that and local ads or scrap yards might yeald parts.
take pictures, alway do this, so that if you get to the point of asking "how's this serpose to go back?" you have pictures showing how to do it.
be sure to check for dis colouring, if its lighter or darker then it might be a nasty 90's bodge or a load of filler,
just remember to set your self a price otherwise you'll be buying stuff and it'll all be for nothing,
best thing to do is to go into your magazine store and buy some classic car mags, look up on how they do resto's.
parts should be easy to find SURF THE NET TIME! that and local ads or scrap yards might yeald parts.
take pictures, alway do this, so that if you get to the point of asking "how's this serpose to go back?" you have pictures showing how to do it.
be sure to check for dis colouring, if its lighter or darker then it might be a nasty 90's bodge or a load of filler,
just remember to set your self a price otherwise you'll be buying stuff and it'll all be for nothing,
Erf...I've always been a drivetrain kinda guy...never was good with bodywork. The problem that I see is that there's a lot of cancer SHOWING. At this point, I'd be going around to a bunch of backwoods body shops for estimates, and one mainstream shop to pinpoint all the bad spots that are hiding. (Like around the window seams...). After that...crunch the numbers and decide if you want to go into it for the long haul. Honestly, I hate to say it but you're probably looking about 7K-10K just in body work.
Eh, shouldn't feel bad, just a live and learn experience for me is how I am lookin at it. I got bit by the old car bug and felt HEY I got the money for it, DO IT! I do think I can still sell it for like $1500 and not really lose much at all. But...gonna kinda be sad to let her go...but I think with that much in bodywork...I can get another for haf that with hardly any rust and in decent shape. Oh well!
I agree. I've been bit by the old car bug...but I can't find anything I'm looking for in the area, or in my price range that's not a terminal cancer patient. The thing you might consider is finding something that's not as popular and go for a driver. I mean, Carrol Shelby loved the little Dodge that he built in the mid 80s. It looks like a Yugo, but apparently it's a blast to drive.
As long as there's no big holes in the rear quarters then parts are easily interchangeable and replaced for cheap if you track em' down.
Rear quarter panels are a whole other story though because they either have to be patched with sheet metal or cut out and replaced. The problem with this however is if you are not very skilled in shaping and welding then the car will not be perfectly straight in the rear quarters and look wonky.
Never be discouraged by rust if you can;t fix the hole, replace the part. Camaros are probably one of the easiest cars to find parts for especially since the year does not need to match for the part to fit in most cases. I myself just recently bought a 1982 Camaro Z28 with a couple spots that need attending too.
Rear quarter panels are a whole other story though because they either have to be patched with sheet metal or cut out and replaced. The problem with this however is if you are not very skilled in shaping and welding then the car will not be perfectly straight in the rear quarters and look wonky.
Never be discouraged by rust if you can;t fix the hole, replace the part. Camaros are probably one of the easiest cars to find parts for especially since the year does not need to match for the part to fit in most cases. I myself just recently bought a 1982 Camaro Z28 with a couple spots that need attending too.
Coming from someone who has dropped $15000 into a $1500 car in the past, it looks very fixable, but I think the right question you want to ask is "will a project like this be economically feasible for your primary mode of transport?" Now, I'm not certain if this is your only car or not. I had an 81 T/A (same body style) that was much worse as far as rust goes, but I let it go because someone offered me good money for it as it sat. My opinion, based on experience doing this type of work, is that the car will need significant metal work to bring it back to prime condition. Those cars are hard to find in original condition (not modified) and this looks like a pretty good example of that. I think most cars around that age usually need 4-5k in work if they have spent their entire lives here in the Northeast with salt and moisture, unlike the solid bodied cars you can still find out west.
Bottom line, if you can afford it as a project, it might be do able. However, for a daily driver Camaro without desirable (z28) options, 6-7k is a lot to sink into a bodywork on a classic that can easily be stolen or damaged in a metropolitan area. If its your only car, and spending that money would be a strain, I suggest finding another mode of transport.
Would I rock it? Yes. I am not afraid to get nasty with an angle grinder on something like that.
Bottom line, if you can afford it as a project, it might be do able. However, for a daily driver Camaro without desirable (z28) options, 6-7k is a lot to sink into a bodywork on a classic that can easily be stolen or damaged in a metropolitan area. If its your only car, and spending that money would be a strain, I suggest finding another mode of transport.
Would I rock it? Yes. I am not afraid to get nasty with an angle grinder on something like that.
definitely try learning how to do it and make a project out of it :). My brother restored a '65 mustang fastback that had a lot of rust. He was only 15 when he started the project and just learned as he went. Back then it was an estimated $2000 to fix the body. But let me tell you he did a FANTASTIC job! It is worth it if you have the time :)
Rust is VERY hard to repair. Like cancer, you have to cut it out most of the time, and then weld or rivet in patch panels, or replace body panels entirely. My personal advice... unless you have a special attachment to *this* car.. sell it, and look for another with a rust-free body. Even if it needs a new engine and transmission, it will be an easier repair in the long run.
:ONLY IF ALL ELSE FAILS:
Armageddon the crap out of her. Talkin' duel 50's up front, cattle guard for the bumper. Gotta work out some steel plating and spiked hub caps but I can see it workin'.
And speakin' of notes o-o...heh...um...
Truth is I've always wanted to do that to a old muscle car. Asked both City and State patrol up here, its legal, long as it don't hinder traffic (lookee loos don't count).
Armageddon the crap out of her. Talkin' duel 50's up front, cattle guard for the bumper. Gotta work out some steel plating and spiked hub caps but I can see it workin'.
And speakin' of notes o-o...heh...um...
Truth is I've always wanted to do that to a old muscle car. Asked both City and State patrol up here, its legal, long as it don't hinder traffic (lookee loos don't count).
Honestly I wouldn't put the money in her. The 305's are solid, they're reliable, but they were made in the late 70s, early 80s, up until the 90s. They had a wierd bore/stroke combination to get that 5.0L displacement, and they're just super wheezy. Cant get any power out of them affordably.
Unfortunately, I'm a Ford man, I'd try to steer you towards a 1988-92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC, seems to fit your bigness. They're the same underneath as a mustang, 225HP from factory, endless aftermarket, infinitely comfortable, and I own a Mark VII Bill Blass my father drives, he can get 24MPG out of it.
http://www.classiclincolns.com/Gall....._003.sized.jpg
Unfortunately, I'm a Ford man, I'd try to steer you towards a 1988-92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC, seems to fit your bigness. They're the same underneath as a mustang, 225HP from factory, endless aftermarket, infinitely comfortable, and I own a Mark VII Bill Blass my father drives, he can get 24MPG out of it.
http://www.classiclincolns.com/Gall....._003.sized.jpg
you have the same problem as me. i know of a place that it would be 2 to 4K to fix that, ill be changing the whole floor and both sides of my 1986 300ZX there for 2k. but probably too long a drive for it from Philadelphia to RI.
best thing to do since you cant fix it yourself is to search for body shops in your area and find the one with best quality/price balance for you
best thing to do since you cant fix it yourself is to search for body shops in your area and find the one with best quality/price balance for you
I would expect to pay minimum 10-15K to fix the body up on it. From looking at the pics, I can grantee there is a lot more hidden under the trim and underneath. I would not be surprised if the floors or trunk needed replacement too. That's a common rust area on those cars.
If you aren't prepared to spend the $. don't ruin it. Sell it to someone who can and get one you can manage
If you aren't prepared to spend the $. don't ruin it. Sell it to someone who can and get one you can manage
Oh dun worry, I am not gonna do work to her if I am not prepared to finsish the job. BUT yeah, I am leaning towards selling her. She has a working engine, inacti interior, she'd be a good parts car and think I can get $1500 for he on Caigslist/Ebay motors. Thanks for the advice...just had that old car bug. NEXT TIME...think more, inspect more and not overreach with my goals.
I think the best you can do is try to part her out and get back what you spent on it. That car has a lot of earth cancer and if that's the rust i can see, their is a lot more i can't. I would check the battery tray and the bottom of the trunk. Might need to pull a few carpets or at least get her on some jack stands and give the undercarriage the once over. You can buy replacement panels but then you need to have them fitted and then painted which gets expensive FAST!
Your best bet is to head as far south as you can and pick up the cleanest southern car you can find. No snow means no salt which means no rust. Georgia particularly the Atlanta area is great place to pick up projects and there are still many good disco Camaro's to be found. Of course if you can find one closer that's always good to. Some one said it, but you want to buy the absolute best car you can afford because it will ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS save you money. Also time and your sanity. Might want to look at some camaro specific forms for cars in good shape.
Look for one with a swapped 350 or 400 SBC. The 305 is just a not a good motor. It's reliable and makes good noise but it has almost zero redeemable qualities and doesn't do a single thing better than a 350/400 SBC which are the cheapest motors available in junkyards today. The 305's have very bad heads and just don't flow. They also don't share many parts with other SBC's. Building one is just a waste of time when you could have the bigger motor with the largest aftermarket known to man. A late 80's early 90's SBC with a pair of votec heads is about the best way to go on a budget. A junkyard 400, a set of junk yard vortec heads, a good carb, some time with a machine shop and you are on your way.
Look here for inspiration
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/.....s/viewall.html
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/.....et_camaro_z28/
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/.....3_engine_swap/
And if you need information about ANYTHING just go here
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/
They have the best automotive forum on the web.
Your best bet is to head as far south as you can and pick up the cleanest southern car you can find. No snow means no salt which means no rust. Georgia particularly the Atlanta area is great place to pick up projects and there are still many good disco Camaro's to be found. Of course if you can find one closer that's always good to. Some one said it, but you want to buy the absolute best car you can afford because it will ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS save you money. Also time and your sanity. Might want to look at some camaro specific forms for cars in good shape.
Look for one with a swapped 350 or 400 SBC. The 305 is just a not a good motor. It's reliable and makes good noise but it has almost zero redeemable qualities and doesn't do a single thing better than a 350/400 SBC which are the cheapest motors available in junkyards today. The 305's have very bad heads and just don't flow. They also don't share many parts with other SBC's. Building one is just a waste of time when you could have the bigger motor with the largest aftermarket known to man. A late 80's early 90's SBC with a pair of votec heads is about the best way to go on a budget. A junkyard 400, a set of junk yard vortec heads, a good carb, some time with a machine shop and you are on your way.
Look here for inspiration
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/.....s/viewall.html
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/.....et_camaro_z28/
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/.....3_engine_swap/
And if you need information about ANYTHING just go here
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/
They have the best automotive forum on the web.
Yeah...I had stars in my eyes I'm afraid...the old car bug. I don't regret th buy, the dude selling it was not scammin me, he told me it was rough. I think I got into...I'd love to bring this car back to life...but din think of the extent or cost of. The car was not in any crashes. I think I can sell her for $1500...do you concur on th estimate? Craigslist or ebay motors I kinda am taking it as a live and learn experience. Next old car...spend lil more upfront. inspect her more, look for rust EVERYWHERE, see if I can have it taken to a garage to look at it, and not make decisions hastily.
What parts of a car CAN be a lil off and still be a good buy? Obviously not the body, I wanna make sure it is as solid and rust free as I can find.
What parts of a car CAN be a lil off and still be a good buy? Obviously not the body, I wanna make sure it is as solid and rust free as I can find.
It appears you've acquired a bunch of advice though, I shall add my two cents being the uber gear-head I am! Very nice car. and a lot of potential for the right price. I'm restoring a 1983 Camaro at the moment and Ill tell you.. doing body work ssuuuccckkk.. and I have two buds who do body-work for a living. Its a shame you aren't local! (Chicago) could get you a real quote! None-the-less.. just from the pics I see $2,000 will buy you a bondo bucket. It will NOT fix all the spots, though it may patch and cover them meaning, in 2-3 years down the road, the bondo will have started to flex, crack, expand and contract.. and EVERY spot will start to show if its painted and look horrible. It'll cost a lot more to be done right (welt in new steel, use bondo appropriately).
I'd drive it till it sells and save, put a couple grand (if you can) down on something a little more solid. Take a local gear-head if you know any with you and have them look over the body of anything you oogle real well. Seeing older cars in person is key, very VERY few will be bondo or rust free but those gems are out there!
Good luck on your work, grats for picken a Camaro <3 An hope to see more of it soon!
I'd drive it till it sells and save, put a couple grand (if you can) down on something a little more solid. Take a local gear-head if you know any with you and have them look over the body of anything you oogle real well. Seeing older cars in person is key, very VERY few will be bondo or rust free but those gems are out there!
Good luck on your work, grats for picken a Camaro <3 An hope to see more of it soon!
ehhh..... i'd sell it and get something a little better. anyone that i've ever seen or met that drove a camaro was an asshole. Not saying you are , but thats the impression they gave.
It's likes the poor mans muscle car , and really , a gto/challenger/charger/mustang would be much cooler. Get somthing that they didn't make A MILLION of. Somthing more unique , like a 58 fury or something really cool. Not a car that everyone has in their back yard.
It's likes the poor mans muscle car , and really , a gto/challenger/charger/mustang would be much cooler. Get somthing that they didn't make A MILLION of. Somthing more unique , like a 58 fury or something really cool. Not a car that everyone has in their back yard.
Well, we shall see! And yeah, heheh the rep lotta Camaro owners have. *grows a mullet and tucks a pack of Camels under my sleeve* Uh, well, sadly Challengers and Chargers are WAY outta my league. Even shitty rustbucket/project ones go for WAY too much. I do like that 70s era Camaro though...yeah they ar kinda dime a dozen, but also helps for parts. BUT who knows what I will look for next...Coronets, Cutlasses, lotta NOT as desirable or collectible cars but can be damn fun to play with!
in the us tho , those are kinda.... meh...
they're very "sensable" "top gear recommended" cars. but when it come to badass and classic , logic goes out the window.
Most americans will turn their heads for a classic american car , but a classic euro car doesn't get a whole lotaa praise here.
they're very "sensable" "top gear recommended" cars. but when it come to badass and classic , logic goes out the window.
Most americans will turn their heads for a classic american car , but a classic euro car doesn't get a whole lotaa praise here.
i dont mind ameircan cars either, like the chevelle form 69 concorse we had as i was smal and i still like it before the 70s model or the cuda.
well i seen to americans euro cars are often treatend like wear and trow products even some cars that are exeptionally rare (lotus omega) with bothers me, thoe it dosent matter where its form if it is a rare car and treat like dirt im really agrevated by it for instance this is a common sight around spring here http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2025.....a25daf47_o.jpg they ride around in it like that and bang it pp to look cool in it.
well i seen to americans euro cars are often treatend like wear and trow products even some cars that are exeptionally rare (lotus omega) with bothers me, thoe it dosent matter where its form if it is a rare car and treat like dirt im really agrevated by it for instance this is a common sight around spring here http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2025.....a25daf47_o.jpg they ride around in it like that and bang it pp to look cool in it.
bmw, mercedes and audi is always expensive in spare parts even in europe, volvos as 700 series i know for its a imported car to america but even without proper parts volvos and early mercs are very similar (build like tanks and very simplefied mecanics) and as a golden rule with any car, dont drive it like you stole it and service it regularly and it will run for along time, volvo even holds the record of longest running car with is a p1800 and the car is even in america.
Hey dude! Long time no see.
As for the car... Well, it depends. Do you really want it? Do you really love it? Is it the body you've always wanted? Do you want to make this a project car?
If you've answered 'No' to most of the questions, sell it. A car of that age and that condition will take a lot of work. It won't be a fully functioning car unless you sink money into it.
If you've answered 'Yes' to most of the questions, keep it. Some cars are very sentimental. Some cars are pretty damn awesome. It's up to you to make that decision.
As for myself, I'm more partial to fuel injection, dual overhead cams, good suspension, a manual transmission and RWD.
Good luck on your quest for fun cars!
As for the car... Well, it depends. Do you really want it? Do you really love it? Is it the body you've always wanted? Do you want to make this a project car?
If you've answered 'No' to most of the questions, sell it. A car of that age and that condition will take a lot of work. It won't be a fully functioning car unless you sink money into it.
If you've answered 'Yes' to most of the questions, keep it. Some cars are very sentimental. Some cars are pretty damn awesome. It's up to you to make that decision.
As for myself, I'm more partial to fuel injection, dual overhead cams, good suspension, a manual transmission and RWD.
Good luck on your quest for fun cars!
Hey dude! Good to see ya! Yeeeah I am likely sellin her. I mean, as I stated in some replies..I got bit by the old car bug and eh...blinded me to stuff that I shoulda stayed away from. But, if I can sell her, put that money towards another BETTER beast...that be OK too!
Just a general note on paint for your car/painting your car- it's ALWAYS cheaper to do it yourself.
I changed/painted my car for $360 and a favor owed ( wheel alignment for the clear-coat sprayer).
the clear coat was the most expensive bit- $200 for just the coat.
$60 for one of the younger guys to sand and rough up the panels so the paint and clear would stick
and I spent another $100 on my paint ( diamont and house of color)
I had a guy spray the clear coat ( and my dad turned over the favor of the wheel alignment).
I didn't coat the whole car ( did more artsy airbrushing! ) but even stuff like the compressor($350) and a detail airbrush ( $75) made it worth it. And a lot of places like paint shops and even autobody shops will have stuff for rent or used and cheap.
Also if you know anyone in auto repair business- there are a lot of times where it's favor for favor. Like we got to use the tow truck to pull out our bushes, but my dad then spends a few weekends working on the boss's buddies cars. Or even with me- I painted a shovel for one of the employees for her husband and they gave me a discount on repairs...
As for the rust- I know there is rust paint for it! It probably would be cheaper to buy a welder and lessons though to repair the panels instead of HAVING them repaired. You save on labor.
Good luck!
I changed/painted my car for $360 and a favor owed ( wheel alignment for the clear-coat sprayer).
the clear coat was the most expensive bit- $200 for just the coat.
$60 for one of the younger guys to sand and rough up the panels so the paint and clear would stick
and I spent another $100 on my paint ( diamont and house of color)
I had a guy spray the clear coat ( and my dad turned over the favor of the wheel alignment).
I didn't coat the whole car ( did more artsy airbrushing! ) but even stuff like the compressor($350) and a detail airbrush ( $75) made it worth it. And a lot of places like paint shops and even autobody shops will have stuff for rent or used and cheap.
Also if you know anyone in auto repair business- there are a lot of times where it's favor for favor. Like we got to use the tow truck to pull out our bushes, but my dad then spends a few weekends working on the boss's buddies cars. Or even with me- I painted a shovel for one of the employees for her husband and they gave me a discount on repairs...
As for the rust- I know there is rust paint for it! It probably would be cheaper to buy a welder and lessons though to repair the panels instead of HAVING them repaired. You save on labor.
Good luck!
You might want to watch the series "Wheeler Dealers" on https://www.streetfire.net to get an idea of how to handle restorations on older cars. Generally, when you buy an older car, you want to spend as much as possible to get the car in the best possible condition as opposed to the cheapest car you can get. The basic formula for return on investment for these older cars is for every $1 you spend in repairing it, expect to get back only $0.50. So the more you can take advantage of someone else's time and money during the purchasing process, the better!
For example, I spent $3250 buying an old car and ended up spending $9000 having it restored. I could probably sell it for about $6-8K, but I could have bought one in as good a shape for about $7-9K and saved myself a lot of money. D'oh! (Hindsight is always 20/20!)
There's a reason why rust is called "car cancer." Still, if the engine runs great and the transmission is fine, you could just enjoy the car as a daily driver as-is. Maybe hit it with some primer on the rusted out spots to slow the decay. And get rid of it before it develops further problems. If you decide to keep it, just come to terms that you'll be spending a LOT of money restoring it--and likely won't ever get that investment back.
For example, I spent $3250 buying an old car and ended up spending $9000 having it restored. I could probably sell it for about $6-8K, but I could have bought one in as good a shape for about $7-9K and saved myself a lot of money. D'oh! (Hindsight is always 20/20!)
There's a reason why rust is called "car cancer." Still, if the engine runs great and the transmission is fine, you could just enjoy the car as a daily driver as-is. Maybe hit it with some primer on the rusted out spots to slow the decay. And get rid of it before it develops further problems. If you decide to keep it, just come to terms that you'll be spending a LOT of money restoring it--and likely won't ever get that investment back.
I love Camaros...in fact I have one of my own that I race...but. I think this one might be too far gone, that rear quarter is just nasty, gonna need LOTS of metal welded into it or a replacement. So....I think it would be better to sell the car and start over. For $6000 you can find a really nice 2nd generation Camaro like this that won't be coated in rust. The great thing about these old chevies is that the driveline is VERY cheap to take car of and upgrade. A few thousand will get you a very nasty engine for the car, a few hundred gets you a rebuilt transmission, etc, etc, etc... So the best bet is to save up your money for a good body and chassis. Paintwork isnt that expensive so long as the metal is in good shape.
Hope that helps, if you DO decide to stick with this car.....keep us updated is all I ask. I for one know what its like to fall in love with a car.
Hope that helps, if you DO decide to stick with this car.....keep us updated is all I ask. I for one know what its like to fall in love with a car.
Id say keep her as a runabout/screwaround camaro she seems pretty beat up but from how it sounds mechanically she seems ok id say keep that as your fun screw around camaro that way you can get used to the v8 power and if you crash it its not like your mangling a nice one ya know. But i would look for another cleaner one you'd be surprised what you can get for like 3-4k especially on old camaro's if your looking for a sort of showcar. But if your interested in learning bodywork and such your current one that beat up would be a great way to learn. If you do wanna do the bodywork Ive built a few cars/trucks before and I built 2 from nothing more then a frame and engine block.
But for example this was my bfs truck when we got in the accident.
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/77...../img0024bt.jpg
And after.
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/.....img0057uko.jpg
Im currently using bondo on the hood corner since its a minor ding and have since this pic was taken sanded the fender and primered it. Just waiting on the paint shop to mix the paint.
But its got a 305 too. :3
But if you decide to feel free to send me a note id be more then happy to give you pointers and advice. ^^
But for example this was my bfs truck when we got in the accident.
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/77...../img0024bt.jpg
And after.
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/.....img0057uko.jpg
Im currently using bondo on the hood corner since its a minor ding and have since this pic was taken sanded the fender and primered it. Just waiting on the paint shop to mix the paint.
But its got a 305 too. :3
But if you decide to feel free to send me a note id be more then happy to give you pointers and advice. ^^
There are still several companies that readily make replacement steel panels for the rust spots you have. Bad part is, if you've never done any body work before, that is one hell of a starter project. I know body work quite well, and that would even prove a hell of a project for myself. Also, you have to keep in mind that whereever you have visible rust on the outside, there is probably twice as much more rust in areas that you can't see.
I wish I lived in your area, or I would offer to help. I would honestly say if you are gonna make a long term project out of the car, great, but if not, you are probably better off selling the car as is and cut your losses.
I wish I lived in your area, or I would offer to help. I would honestly say if you are gonna make a long term project out of the car, great, but if not, you are probably better off selling the car as is and cut your losses.
but on a serious note if not restoring it.then well...drive her into the ground OR if you ARE planning on restoring it get a Doner car in terms of it's body panels. and exterior trim. as for the RUST..* ear splitting screams* <.< alot of cutting and re-welding.. o_o do what body work you can on it to save as much money as possible when it comes time to repainting it. and if you wanna learn more go into Youtube and look up
Wheeler Dealers. it's a UK program alot of advice. they even work on some american cars too. my two cents. happy driving.
Wheeler Dealers. it's a UK program alot of advice. they even work on some american cars too. my two cents. happy driving.
Ouch....That's gonna require new panels. WAY too much rust all the way through to patch....and there's probably more on the inside...the east coast is NOT a good place for american steel...all that crap salt on the road and ice...you end up rustin' anything out. >.< Ohhh that poor beauty though...they are RARE out here on the west coast...how is the chassis and engine and interior though? If those are in decent condition, she might be save-able...
Keep in mind that you'll have a lot of problems with the 305, Unless you're going for all original, I'd upgrade to a 350 at least. Love the 2nd gen Camaros though, was may favorite of them. As for the rust, you can go to your local auto parts store and pick up some chemicals that will stop it from spreading. Worry about making sure that everything runs good before delving into the body. That's what I'm doing with my 71 Buick Skylark, and it has just as much if not more rust. Funny, I called mine the Beast too when I uploaded a picture of it! XD Make sure you check every single vacume hose in the engine bay as well. Also, look for leaks of any kind. Rebuilding the Carburetor is probably a good idea too, depending on how long it's sat or how long it's gone without a carb rebuild. Good luck with the project! Can't wait to see it when it's done!
Ouch...I am no body expert, nor am I a mechanic or any of that stuff, but, I can tell you right now that rust would end up eating your bank account pretty badly. Found myself in a similar situation with a 89 Firebird, just trying to get the rust touched up or buffed or whatever they do sent me back 2Gs and then the transmission just decided two months later it should stop working. I know a Philly fur and he tends to get beaters and get them into at least a decent condition. I could ask him for a suggestion to an Auto-Body shop around his area.
Having only been to Philly once, I can only suggest traveling to South Philadelphia where stuff tends to hit the fringe of the bad part of town, find yourself a Ma and Pa kind of shop and see if you can hammer out a lower price or see if they'd take it off your hands. If I lived any closer I'd pick that sucker up in a second, I love older cars, back when they were made solid as hell and with metal and a V-8 was pretty much standard fare. I can see why you bought it though, she can be a real beauty if you sink quite a bit of time and cash into it.
Having only been to Philly once, I can only suggest traveling to South Philadelphia where stuff tends to hit the fringe of the bad part of town, find yourself a Ma and Pa kind of shop and see if you can hammer out a lower price or see if they'd take it off your hands. If I lived any closer I'd pick that sucker up in a second, I love older cars, back when they were made solid as hell and with metal and a V-8 was pretty much standard fare. I can see why you bought it though, she can be a real beauty if you sink quite a bit of time and cash into it.
She's still in this state unfortunately. Been shoppin around for bodywork but most is WAY too expensive. Options are...sell her off, someone will definitely want her least for parts. Or I MIGHT have a lead on good yet affordable body work from a friend of a friend...shall see! If he thinks is too much of a job well she gets Craigslisted sadly.
If you really are dead set on keeping the car, your best shot would be to make your own mini panels. Just to replace the rusted areas, then sand things flat and finally clean/repaint EVERY part of the body. Cleaning is very important with an older car so you known the situation with everything. It also helps keep things in good shape. I would look for a local generic metalworking shop for help.
You could also just order new panels from anyplace online but I bet it would be hella expensive.
You could also just order new panels from anyplace online but I bet it would be hella expensive.
went through that with my 69 Camaro SS 6k is actually fairly good price seeing they are going to pull it apart and remove all the rust and replace all the rotted sheet metal. They will also have to replace body bushings and everything And make sure the sub frame is good. even if your just restore it back to original stock the car will be worth 30K easy unmolested. Sadly I got deployed and sold/gave the car away seeing the 67 - 69 are pretty much untouchable now. It well worth investing getting it restored, and letting somebody do it thats knows what they are doing saves your dealing with the cars apart for 2 to 5 years as your struggle with restoring it, and just locating the parts alone the correct ones is a nightmare
Cheaper to buy one rust free from the desert and swap in your drivetrain parts if there are any mechanical issues on the rust-free car. Oh, and your interior pieces will probably be less sun-beaten than the desert car's.
Rust repair always goes deep, and fixing it right is hideously expensive and time consuming.
Rust repair always goes deep, and fixing it right is hideously expensive and time consuming.
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