Please read the lower section at minimum if you really don't care about the description.
Accompanying Journal To Follow Shortly
For those who have not yet noticed, I am the one who has been going around AntrhoCon and Midwest Fur Fest as Naked Snake from Metal Gear Solid with a "The Orange" box that I can hide under.
For those who have seen me, or looked closely at the pictures, you will notice the MOLLE vest I wear has a general storage pouch mounted above my right leg. At AC2011 it was full of random stuff. At MFF2011 it was full of candy to toss at people who recognized me, took pictures with me, or posed with me.
A few days ago I had an idea. Instead of candy, why not toss/hand out something related a bit more to the costume. In fact, why not hand out keychains I have been making from the spent shell casings.
Brilliant. :v
So here is my idea, but if you have read the text on the image you probably know already.
Find me at AC2012 while I am in costume (Box or no box) and I'll toss you a keychain made from a spent casing.
However, unlike the last image I posted of the keychains and earrings I made from some casings , I will not be asking people what specific casings they want or finishing these in any way (polish, clear coat, etc).
As the other ones, these are fired casings that are now nothing more than pieces of brass/steel/aluminum/plastic. There is no live anything about these, and the most harm they could do to anyone is possibly be a choking hazard, but then again most keychains are. Please don't try to eat these.
SO HERE IS WHAT ALL THIS IS ABOUT
I would however like to get a general consensus of what people would like to see made into keychains in terms of caliber.
Take a look through the ones here and let me know which you think would be something that I should make sure I have made to pass out to people.
I only have certain quantities of certain calibers, but I'd like to try my best to have things that people actually want/ would enjoy getting as a keychain.
Since I have doubts people will know what all these are exactly, I will list them below by caliber.
Top Group
.22LR (Not sure How i'd make these into keychains. O.o)
.380ACP
9mm Luger Brass
9mm Luger Aluminum
.40 S&W
.45ACP Brass
.45ACP Aluminum
.38 Special
.357 Magnum Aluminum
.44 Magnum
.454 Casull
AA Battery For Scale
Middle Group
AA Battery For Scale
7.62x39mm Plain Steel
7.62x39mm Dark Steel
7.62x39mm Lacquered Steel
7.62x39mm Brass-Plated Steel
7.62x39mm Brass
5.56x45mm (There are also some .223 that I have, but these are the same externally. Headstamp is different though)
.30-30 Winchester
.308 Winchester Zinc Plated Steel
.308 Winchester Brass (After a G3A3 got done with it)
.300 Winchester Shor Magnum Nickle Plated Brass
7.62x54mmR Copper Washed Steel
7.92x57mm Mauser (8mm Mauser. Not sure if I can do these as they still have live primers. :x)
.270 Winchester
.338 Winchester Magnum (NOT .338 LAPUA)
Bottom Group
20 Gauge Target
12 Gauge Target (Winchester Logo)
12 Gauge Target (Estate Logo)
12 Gauge Target (Breast Cancer Awareness. It's a pink shot shell)
12 Gauge Slug (Winchester Super X Logo)
12 Gauge 00 Buck (Military Surplus)
AA Battery
Let me know what you would like to see made and brought to AC2012.
I'm still trying to figure out if I want to just pass these out when people see me or talk to me about the costume, or make it so people have to answer questions. :P
AUP Note:
By the AUP it is not allowed to upload collections of manufactured objects for the sake of showing the collection. However it further states that if the object is modified significantly it may be uploaded provided the image is being used to show the modifications done/being done to the object, which is what the purpose of this image is. If it is really such an issue then just let me know and I'll take it down and host it elsewhere. I'm not trying to start trouble.
Accompanying Journal To Follow Shortly
For those who have not yet noticed, I am the one who has been going around AntrhoCon and Midwest Fur Fest as Naked Snake from Metal Gear Solid with a "The Orange" box that I can hide under.
For those who have seen me, or looked closely at the pictures, you will notice the MOLLE vest I wear has a general storage pouch mounted above my right leg. At AC2011 it was full of random stuff. At MFF2011 it was full of candy to toss at people who recognized me, took pictures with me, or posed with me.
A few days ago I had an idea. Instead of candy, why not toss/hand out something related a bit more to the costume. In fact, why not hand out keychains I have been making from the spent shell casings.
Brilliant. :v
So here is my idea, but if you have read the text on the image you probably know already.
Find me at AC2012 while I am in costume (Box or no box) and I'll toss you a keychain made from a spent casing.
However, unlike the last image I posted of the keychains and earrings I made from some casings , I will not be asking people what specific casings they want or finishing these in any way (polish, clear coat, etc).
As the other ones, these are fired casings that are now nothing more than pieces of brass/steel/aluminum/plastic. There is no live anything about these, and the most harm they could do to anyone is possibly be a choking hazard, but then again most keychains are. Please don't try to eat these.
SO HERE IS WHAT ALL THIS IS ABOUT
I would however like to get a general consensus of what people would like to see made into keychains in terms of caliber.
Take a look through the ones here and let me know which you think would be something that I should make sure I have made to pass out to people.
I only have certain quantities of certain calibers, but I'd like to try my best to have things that people actually want/ would enjoy getting as a keychain.
Since I have doubts people will know what all these are exactly, I will list them below by caliber.
Top Group
.22LR (Not sure How i'd make these into keychains. O.o)
.380ACP
9mm Luger Brass
9mm Luger Aluminum
.40 S&W
.45ACP Brass
.45ACP Aluminum
.38 Special
.357 Magnum Aluminum
.44 Magnum
.454 Casull
AA Battery For Scale
Middle Group
AA Battery For Scale
7.62x39mm Plain Steel
7.62x39mm Dark Steel
7.62x39mm Lacquered Steel
7.62x39mm Brass-Plated Steel
7.62x39mm Brass
5.56x45mm (There are also some .223 that I have, but these are the same externally. Headstamp is different though)
.30-30 Winchester
.308 Winchester Zinc Plated Steel
.308 Winchester Brass (After a G3A3 got done with it)
.300 Winchester Shor Magnum Nickle Plated Brass
7.62x54mmR Copper Washed Steel
7.92x57mm Mauser (8mm Mauser. Not sure if I can do these as they still have live primers. :x)
.270 Winchester
.338 Winchester Magnum (NOT .338 LAPUA)
Bottom Group
20 Gauge Target
12 Gauge Target (Winchester Logo)
12 Gauge Target (Estate Logo)
12 Gauge Target (Breast Cancer Awareness. It's a pink shot shell)
12 Gauge Slug (Winchester Super X Logo)
12 Gauge 00 Buck (Military Surplus)
AA Battery
Let me know what you would like to see made and brought to AC2012.
I'm still trying to figure out if I want to just pass these out when people see me or talk to me about the costume, or make it so people have to answer questions. :P
AUP Note:
By the AUP it is not allowed to upload collections of manufactured objects for the sake of showing the collection. However it further states that if the object is modified significantly it may be uploaded provided the image is being used to show the modifications done/being done to the object, which is what the purpose of this image is. If it is really such an issue then just let me know and I'll take it down and host it elsewhere. I'm not trying to start trouble.
Category Contests / Miscellaneous
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1280 x 1280px
File Size 1.06 MB
Listed in Folders
*snake voice* Though I feel partial to the ballistics and commonality of the 9mm NATO, I would have to choose the .45 for it's dependability to bring down a hostile. As for rifle calibers...The 7.62x39 and 5.56 are both phenomenal in their own fields of use, however, the .308 and 7.62x54R would be my top picks. The edge barely going to the 7.62x54R in the end. For shot guns, military double ought buckshot would be my choice.
This is all a matter of opinion though...
[Summary: .45ACP (Brass), 7.62x54R, and 12 Gauge 00 Buck (Military issue).]
{Criticism: The 7.62x54R in the photo is not Brass Plated, it is a Copper washed casing. Many Russian, Polish and Chinese chamberings used the copper washed casing for some reason or another, most likely aesthetics. An accurate assessment could be made with the head stamp and what the bullet looked like, but that is not what this submission is about at all.}
Herp de derp eh derp.
This is all a matter of opinion though...
[Summary: .45ACP (Brass), 7.62x54R, and 12 Gauge 00 Buck (Military issue).]
{Criticism: The 7.62x54R in the photo is not Brass Plated, it is a Copper washed casing. Many Russian, Polish and Chinese chamberings used the copper washed casing for some reason or another, most likely aesthetics. An accurate assessment could be made with the head stamp and what the bullet looked like, but that is not what this submission is about at all.}
Herp de derp eh derp.
Well which would you like to see as a keychain? Or is that what the summary is? :P
If so, the problem lies with the fact that I only have 1 .45ACP brass. and about 39 .45ACP aluminum casings (Namely because I shot the CCI Aluminum stuff).
As for the 7.62x54mmR
The bulk of what I have is 60/82 headstamp USSR Surplus. I have a few stray 188/76 which is Bulgarian all-brass. The copper washed instead of brass plated would explain why it looked so coppery when polished ( http://www.furaffinity.net/view/7793104/ ). The washing/plating is not done just for aesthetics. Copper and Brass are much smoother surfaces than the steel, which is much cheaper to use for production. This can aid in extraction and ejection, as well as feeding.
Fancy ammo like Hornady, will use nickle plating. They also tout the nickle plated casings as being "better for low light chamber checks".
Russian commercial ammo, such as the <Color> Bear line of ammo is finished in multiple ways. Brown Bear = Lacquered. Silver Bear = Zinc Plated. Golden Bear = Brass Plated
If so, the problem lies with the fact that I only have 1 .45ACP brass. and about 39 .45ACP aluminum casings (Namely because I shot the CCI Aluminum stuff).
As for the 7.62x54mmR
The bulk of what I have is 60/82 headstamp USSR Surplus. I have a few stray 188/76 which is Bulgarian all-brass. The copper washed instead of brass plated would explain why it looked so coppery when polished ( http://www.furaffinity.net/view/7793104/ ). The washing/plating is not done just for aesthetics. Copper and Brass are much smoother surfaces than the steel, which is much cheaper to use for production. This can aid in extraction and ejection, as well as feeding.
Fancy ammo like Hornady, will use nickle plating. They also tout the nickle plated casings as being "better for low light chamber checks".
Russian commercial ammo, such as the <Color> Bear line of ammo is finished in multiple ways. Brown Bear = Lacquered. Silver Bear = Zinc Plated. Golden Bear = Brass Plated
I have quite a bit of Winchester .45 brass laying around with some Steel case Wolf 7.62x39. I could ship it to ya if ya like.
And the 7.62x54R is Russian, factory 188 is in Novosibirsk. And I didn't quint know that about the copper wash, I knew nickel and zinc were for that reason, but not copper.
And the 7.62x54R is Russian, factory 188 is in Novosibirsk. And I didn't quint know that about the copper wash, I knew nickel and zinc were for that reason, but not copper.
I do have 5.7x28mm in my collection of casings, but the ones listed here are the ones that I have extras of and am willing to make into stuff.
My full collection has 96 casings (all different headstamps) and 31 calibers. They range from old surplus to current commercial production to things collected at a military base.
As for shooting, I'm always up for finding new people to go to the range with.
And for the .357. I don't have any brass or even much of it at all. Plus I am looking at a GP100 for my next firearm and considering reloading that.
My full collection has 96 casings (all different headstamps) and 31 calibers. They range from old surplus to current commercial production to things collected at a military base.
As for shooting, I'm always up for finding new people to go to the range with.
And for the .357. I don't have any brass or even much of it at all. Plus I am looking at a GP100 for my next firearm and considering reloading that.
If you're looking into reloading 357 magnum, cost on bullets is going to be your only real concern. Lead is the only way to go, just need to find the right size bullet and you won't see any leading in the bore.
I get all mine from rimrock bullets and they're at least half the cost of anywhere else... Hell, got 500 180gr hardcast for 357 for $37 from them! That's exceptionally cheap shooting. http://www.rimrockbullets.net/reloading/
They're about twice as hard as what I can find locally, and cheaper even after shipping.
I get all mine from rimrock bullets and they're at least half the cost of anywhere else... Hell, got 500 180gr hardcast for 357 for $37 from them! That's exceptionally cheap shooting. http://www.rimrockbullets.net/reloading/
They're about twice as hard as what I can find locally, and cheaper even after shipping.
It can take awhile...
Currently, I'm loading 180gr WFN over 14.6gr of Win296 with a winchester WSPM primer. That comes out to 14¢ a round. You could get down around 10¢ a round I imagine.
Problem is, there's a completely understated difference in quality and ease of use in reloading equipment. I do not recommend a single stage press for starters. I recommend a lyman turret press, as it's the best press available for the money. RCBS dies($45) are also the best dies for the money, and the difference between them and lee is very very large, especially in the resulting ammunition made. Make absolutely sure you go with carbide dies to save time and money spent on lubing casings. You also need to consider how you would like to prime the casings. RCBS hand prime system ($50-70) is a very effective system for priming large lots of brass in a short period of time, and can be done while watching tv or what ever.
A case cleaner is a must, and if you have a harbor freight locally, you can get an ultra sonic cleaner from there for around $70.
You won't save much money, or recover costs quickly... You will have the ability to decide what you shoot, and make what ever you like, and do it for far less than factory ammunition. You can buy and store components, and make up what ever, when ever.
Where the big savings came in for me was reloading for 454 casull, cost me around 20¢ a shot, verses the $2 a shot it would be for factory ammo.
I've been doing all of this stuff for around 6 years, and have been studying it on a regular basis ever since, as it's a hobby for me.
Contact me on steam or skype, and I'd be more than happy to explain in detail anything you have questions or concerns over.
Currently, I'm loading 180gr WFN over 14.6gr of Win296 with a winchester WSPM primer. That comes out to 14¢ a round. You could get down around 10¢ a round I imagine.
Problem is, there's a completely understated difference in quality and ease of use in reloading equipment. I do not recommend a single stage press for starters. I recommend a lyman turret press, as it's the best press available for the money. RCBS dies($45) are also the best dies for the money, and the difference between them and lee is very very large, especially in the resulting ammunition made. Make absolutely sure you go with carbide dies to save time and money spent on lubing casings. You also need to consider how you would like to prime the casings. RCBS hand prime system ($50-70) is a very effective system for priming large lots of brass in a short period of time, and can be done while watching tv or what ever.
A case cleaner is a must, and if you have a harbor freight locally, you can get an ultra sonic cleaner from there for around $70.
You won't save much money, or recover costs quickly... You will have the ability to decide what you shoot, and make what ever you like, and do it for far less than factory ammunition. You can buy and store components, and make up what ever, when ever.
Where the big savings came in for me was reloading for 454 casull, cost me around 20¢ a shot, verses the $2 a shot it would be for factory ammo.
I've been doing all of this stuff for around 6 years, and have been studying it on a regular basis ever since, as it's a hobby for me.
Contact me on steam or skype, and I'd be more than happy to explain in detail anything you have questions or concerns over.
I'll give you a shout on Skype tonight.
For me reloading would be primarily a way to possibly save money. I don't get to shoot often and when I do I usually spent a day at a nice outdoor range. The large limiting factor is dividing my available funds for the day between several calibers at the store. I always wind up shooting through all my 9mm and then, assuming I am out of 7.62x54mmR, spend the rest of the day with my .22LR's
Granted, a 6-shot revolver would go through ammunition slower than my 15-round capacity Jericho or 25-round capacity UZI, especially because the revolver would be a bit more target shooting than just having fun (although it would no doubt be fun as well).
As for reloading equipment, I don't have a large space for a bench mounted press and combine my volume of and infrequency of shooting I was looking at the neat little Lee hand press and some carbide dies. I do like the idea of being able to tailor loads, especially for a magnum caliber, so I can work up to what I feel comfortable with and use the slugs/bullets I want.
Crunching some numbers, It probably wouldn't take that long to make it pay off, especially with even some of the cheapest .357 commercial ammo being about $0.36 a round ($18.75 for a box of 50 online before shipping). So at $0.14 cents a round reloaded you are saving about $10 per "box" of 50. Also, after looking at a few companies for dies, the RCBS and Hornady dies for .357 can also reload .38 Special.
For me reloading would be primarily a way to possibly save money. I don't get to shoot often and when I do I usually spent a day at a nice outdoor range. The large limiting factor is dividing my available funds for the day between several calibers at the store. I always wind up shooting through all my 9mm and then, assuming I am out of 7.62x54mmR, spend the rest of the day with my .22LR's
Granted, a 6-shot revolver would go through ammunition slower than my 15-round capacity Jericho or 25-round capacity UZI, especially because the revolver would be a bit more target shooting than just having fun (although it would no doubt be fun as well).
As for reloading equipment, I don't have a large space for a bench mounted press and combine my volume of and infrequency of shooting I was looking at the neat little Lee hand press and some carbide dies. I do like the idea of being able to tailor loads, especially for a magnum caliber, so I can work up to what I feel comfortable with and use the slugs/bullets I want.
Crunching some numbers, It probably wouldn't take that long to make it pay off, especially with even some of the cheapest .357 commercial ammo being about $0.36 a round ($18.75 for a box of 50 online before shipping). So at $0.14 cents a round reloaded you are saving about $10 per "box" of 50. Also, after looking at a few companies for dies, the RCBS and Hornady dies for .357 can also reload .38 Special.
Almost all 38 marked dies will be good for loading 357... The reverse isn't always true though.
Most are listed as dual caliber dies at least.
I don't have much room either, but built a small bench and braced it so it can be small but ultra stable, then hung weights off the bottom to aid in the solidness.
You do not want a lee hand press, trust me on that. If you want to go cheap on a press, a lee 4 hole turret press is a much better way to go, especially as a kit. Powder measurements need to be precise, within 0.1gr generally, and their auto index powder measure works much like a dillon, which is fine for mid-low pressure loads. With a turret press you have close to the speed of a progressive press but at 1/5th the cost, and the ability to run it as a single stage.
That lee hand press will end up getting pitched within about 10 rounds loaded, you're talking days to make a box of ammo. On a turret press, hand weighing every charge, and maintaining 0.001" OAL, with 0.1gr powder variation, and inspecting crimp diameter every round, I can crank out 50 in a little over an hour.
If I'm loading 45acp with a really un-finicky powder, I can crank out almost 150 in that amount of time. And that's having to go through 4 dies each round.
Most are listed as dual caliber dies at least.
I don't have much room either, but built a small bench and braced it so it can be small but ultra stable, then hung weights off the bottom to aid in the solidness.
You do not want a lee hand press, trust me on that. If you want to go cheap on a press, a lee 4 hole turret press is a much better way to go, especially as a kit. Powder measurements need to be precise, within 0.1gr generally, and their auto index powder measure works much like a dillon, which is fine for mid-low pressure loads. With a turret press you have close to the speed of a progressive press but at 1/5th the cost, and the ability to run it as a single stage.
That lee hand press will end up getting pitched within about 10 rounds loaded, you're talking days to make a box of ammo. On a turret press, hand weighing every charge, and maintaining 0.001" OAL, with 0.1gr powder variation, and inspecting crimp diameter every round, I can crank out 50 in a little over an hour.
If I'm loading 45acp with a really un-finicky powder, I can crank out almost 150 in that amount of time. And that's having to go through 4 dies each round.
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