FA+
Shop
360
Views
Views
1
Favorites
Favorites
Category
All / All
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 2219 x 1660
File Size 787.8 kB
Report this content
More from redbear1158
Listed in Folders
Progress is when there's less to do than there was before you started. In this case the solar side of things is progressing.
Where possible old parts and wire was used to double the number of panel sets I can run and have both solar chargers charging different battery sets.
Now for the oops. I was testing the new meters and two lit up instead of just the one. On a different test point three of the meters lit. So I connected it to the bus as we see here. Those diodes should keep any power from feeding back - so no meters should be lit.
I needed to buy more diodes anyway (can't remember where I put my extra ones), that and the heavier wires for the chargers I might have everything up by next weekend.
(Then comes the fun of replacing that roof and adding a few more panels!)
Where possible old parts and wire was used to double the number of panel sets I can run and have both solar chargers charging different battery sets.
Now for the oops. I was testing the new meters and two lit up instead of just the one. On a different test point three of the meters lit. So I connected it to the bus as we see here. Those diodes should keep any power from feeding back - so no meters should be lit.
I needed to buy more diodes anyway (can't remember where I put my extra ones), that and the heavier wires for the chargers I might have everything up by next weekend.
(Then comes the fun of replacing that roof and adding a few more panels!)
Category All / All
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 2219 x 1660px
File Size 787.8 kB
Listed in Folders
I was going 'How the heck do I hold two wires to a 9v battery and still be able to move the ends of the wires easily?'
Had the plug to hook the 9v to the ESP8266/Arduino board, plugged the wires into that - at least the blue lights tell me there's power!
(and I wish those boards had been out in the '90s!)
Had the plug to hook the 9v to the ESP8266/Arduino board, plugged the wires into that - at least the blue lights tell me there's power!
(and I wish those boards had been out in the '90s!)
I am trying to figure out something with the Ampvint MPPT solar charge controller. It supports a maximum of 150V (72V to 144V) of solar input and approximately 22.67A (3400W at 48V for the 60A unit)
To start out, I thought of having six panels on my system, (though four might be sufficient to begin with): https://a1solarstore.com/hyundai-41.....clearance.html
These are bifacial 410W panels at 45.9 Voc, and 11.4A short circuit. I imagine I would connect 3 in series, for a maximum OC voltage of 137.7V, and the second set of 3 would be connected in parallel to get a maximum of 22.4A at 137.7V. For these panels, Pmax current and voltage is 10.76A and 38.1V (so 3S2P would be 114.3V x 21.52A for 2460W of solar)
How would this work in connecting? I assume that the two sets would connect to the same terminal block, so that both panel sets connect to + and - on the terminal block?
I built myself a 2.6kWh, 48V battery using 5Ah 21700 batteries. 13S10P, and will be using a 2500W pure sine wave inverter to begin with.
To start out, I thought of having six panels on my system, (though four might be sufficient to begin with): https://a1solarstore.com/hyundai-41.....clearance.html
These are bifacial 410W panels at 45.9 Voc, and 11.4A short circuit. I imagine I would connect 3 in series, for a maximum OC voltage of 137.7V, and the second set of 3 would be connected in parallel to get a maximum of 22.4A at 137.7V. For these panels, Pmax current and voltage is 10.76A and 38.1V (so 3S2P would be 114.3V x 21.52A for 2460W of solar)
How would this work in connecting? I assume that the two sets would connect to the same terminal block, so that both panel sets connect to + and - on the terminal block?
I built myself a 2.6kWh, 48V battery using 5Ah 21700 batteries. 13S10P, and will be using a 2500W pure sine wave inverter to begin with.
Also, ultimately, I would like something like 8kW of solar, 16-32kWh of battery, and 24kW of inverters
Get one of these DIY battery boxes: https://eelbattery.myshopify.com/pr.....40770759655513
With 16, 280Ah LiFePO4 batteries, for up to 16.35kWh of storage: https://eelbattery.myshopify.com/pr.....40461489274969
That's about $2200, two would be $4400
I would get either two of these inverters: https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-18kp.....g4-18kpv-12lv/ Supports up to 18kW of solar, and outputs 12kW, but they cost $5600 when not on sale (So $11,200)
Or four of these inverters: https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000.....r-split-phase/ up to 8kW of solar input, and outputs 6kW, and are $1550 when not on sale. (so $6200)
Also, those 410W bifacial panels, 20 of them, for 8.2kWh of solar, so about $2700 in panels.
So, 8.2kW of panels + 16kWh of battery + 12kW of inverter would be about $8030 using 2 of the 6kW inverters, or $10530 with one 12kW inverter.
Or, 8.2kW of panels + 32kWh of battery + 24kW of inverter would be about $13,300 using 4 of the 6kW inverters, or $18,300 with two 12kW inverters.
Adding another 16kWh of battery would make the system cost $15,500 and $20,500 respectively.
Get one of these DIY battery boxes: https://eelbattery.myshopify.com/pr.....40770759655513
With 16, 280Ah LiFePO4 batteries, for up to 16.35kWh of storage: https://eelbattery.myshopify.com/pr.....40461489274969
That's about $2200, two would be $4400
I would get either two of these inverters: https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-18kp.....g4-18kpv-12lv/ Supports up to 18kW of solar, and outputs 12kW, but they cost $5600 when not on sale (So $11,200)
Or four of these inverters: https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000.....r-split-phase/ up to 8kW of solar input, and outputs 6kW, and are $1550 when not on sale. (so $6200)
Also, those 410W bifacial panels, 20 of them, for 8.2kWh of solar, so about $2700 in panels.
So, 8.2kW of panels + 16kWh of battery + 12kW of inverter would be about $8030 using 2 of the 6kW inverters, or $10530 with one 12kW inverter.
Or, 8.2kW of panels + 32kWh of battery + 24kW of inverter would be about $13,300 using 4 of the 6kW inverters, or $18,300 with two 12kW inverters.
Adding another 16kWh of battery would make the system cost $15,500 and $20,500 respectively.
The only thing I don't like about that first 'all in one' is the line "HIGH FREQUENCY, SPLIT-PHASE OUTPUT". Depending on how they are doing it it may not play nice with electronic equipment (the one I got uses a massive transformer and is considered a 'low frequency' inverter. I can't really tell/suggest as I haven't played with that type as yet.)
As to which to get? If one of the first go down you're down to half power, one of the second you still have 75%.
As to how 'much' of what you need? Depends on your demands. My 'best day' of solar collection on my 5kW solar has been just shy of 22kWhs of power. Summer average draw with the A/C going is over 70kWhs, so I'd want/need +20kW of solar - and that still wouldn't cover cloudy days. As my 6kW inverter can't run the A/C, it just runs the rest of the house, 12-14kWhs winter 16-20kWhs summer - which with just 20kWhs of battery any cloudy day had us back on the mains ...
I like the inverter power (wish the one I picked could be ganged with more), but do you need lots of power for a little time each day - or a lot of power all day? The reason I ask is things look a little top heavy (big truck engine with small gas tank.) Do you know/have an idea what your daily power needs will be?
As to which to get? If one of the first go down you're down to half power, one of the second you still have 75%.
As to how 'much' of what you need? Depends on your demands. My 'best day' of solar collection on my 5kW solar has been just shy of 22kWhs of power. Summer average draw with the A/C going is over 70kWhs, so I'd want/need +20kW of solar - and that still wouldn't cover cloudy days. As my 6kW inverter can't run the A/C, it just runs the rest of the house, 12-14kWhs winter 16-20kWhs summer - which with just 20kWhs of battery any cloudy day had us back on the mains ...
I like the inverter power (wish the one I picked could be ganged with more), but do you need lots of power for a little time each day - or a lot of power all day? The reason I ask is things look a little top heavy (big truck engine with small gas tank.) Do you know/have an idea what your daily power needs will be?
Looking at the Smart Meter Texas website:
Last 23 days (basically the month of May), I've averaged 21.15kWh/day. Highest usage I've seen is 46.9kWh in a day (last month), highest this month was 39.5kWh in a day (that was last Sunday).
For example, Monday the 20th was 94, and I used 34.11kWh, Tuesday was 97, and I used 33.52kWh. According to the Smart Meter Texas website, my peak usage was on the 20th was 0.745kWh at 5PM
8.2kW of solar during the peak 5 hours of the day should produce 41kWh of solar.
I plan on washing my clothes today, so I should see what peak usage is with the dryer going (in two days, since the website doesn't show today's usage until two days from now)
Last 23 days (basically the month of May), I've averaged 21.15kWh/day. Highest usage I've seen is 46.9kWh in a day (last month), highest this month was 39.5kWh in a day (that was last Sunday).
For example, Monday the 20th was 94, and I used 34.11kWh, Tuesday was 97, and I used 33.52kWh. According to the Smart Meter Texas website, my peak usage was on the 20th was 0.745kWh at 5PM
8.2kW of solar during the peak 5 hours of the day should produce 41kWh of solar.
I plan on washing my clothes today, so I should see what peak usage is with the dryer going (in two days, since the website doesn't show today's usage until two days from now)
Summer is coming, those numbers will go up.
Also remember those solar panel numbers are lab based, as in under ideal conditions. My 5kW best has been just under 4kWs from those panels (of course I'm losing a tiny bit from the diodes, but less than 50Ws) so maybe 80% of their posted rating. If yours are like mine that 41kWh day turns into 32.8 - and that's on a good day. (one rainy day I didn't even get 2kWhs out of them!)
I've seen a few +20kWh solar days, but any haze or a semi-cloudy day and the solar can take a major hit. And summer months offset more light with more heat, which lowers your power out (Summer means my 4PM shade tree is out of the way, but the heat and Southern slope of the panels are then working against me.)
I'm not saying don't do, I'm just trying to make sure you're aware of some of the traps I've stepped in.
Also remember those solar panel numbers are lab based, as in under ideal conditions. My 5kW best has been just under 4kWs from those panels (of course I'm losing a tiny bit from the diodes, but less than 50Ws) so maybe 80% of their posted rating. If yours are like mine that 41kWh day turns into 32.8 - and that's on a good day. (one rainy day I didn't even get 2kWhs out of them!)
I've seen a few +20kWh solar days, but any haze or a semi-cloudy day and the solar can take a major hit. And summer months offset more light with more heat, which lowers your power out (Summer means my 4PM shade tree is out of the way, but the heat and Southern slope of the panels are then working against me.)
I'm not saying don't do, I'm just trying to make sure you're aware of some of the traps I've stepped in.
This is the inverter I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XTMKKB
It does do a maximum of just over 52A under full load, but I also don't plan on using all 2500W. I could run all my electronics (computer, modem, router, security camera DVR, Raspberry Pi 4, two monitors, a laser printer and a couple weather stations, and possibly my TV and surround sound system) on this thing and still have spare power.
I have an energy monitor on the circuit with my computer, printer, DVR and other stuff. With the computer off, there is a 50-55W continuous draw. With the computer on and at idle, that's 250W. When playing games, or in VRChat, it peaks at 650W. Not sure what my entertainment center draws. My printer uses about 100-150W to print, and up to about 1kW when first turned on.
It does do a maximum of just over 52A under full load, but I also don't plan on using all 2500W. I could run all my electronics (computer, modem, router, security camera DVR, Raspberry Pi 4, two monitors, a laser printer and a couple weather stations, and possibly my TV and surround sound system) on this thing and still have spare power.
I have an energy monitor on the circuit with my computer, printer, DVR and other stuff. With the computer off, there is a 50-55W continuous draw. With the computer on and at idle, that's 250W. When playing games, or in VRChat, it peaks at 650W. Not sure what my entertainment center draws. My printer uses about 100-150W to print, and up to about 1kW when first turned on.
Okay, so a 'now' and 'plans for later'?
And this is one of those inverters that may or may not play nice with your electronics. My first hint was the weight, too light to have any large transformer in it so they're ramping your sine waves around with transistors, which can be messy. Give it a try, it might be okay ...
Hmm, 55Ws is 1.32kWhs a day doing nothing.
Leaving your computer on and idle all day/night is 6kWhs a day.
Peaking at 650 is 15.6kWhs if you can do it all day!
I think my whole house in the winter (no A/C) averaged 480Ws (yes, this was using my nextbook and not my rendering system which can draw 450Ws when chewing through a rendering.)
And this is one of those inverters that may or may not play nice with your electronics. My first hint was the weight, too light to have any large transformer in it so they're ramping your sine waves around with transistors, which can be messy. Give it a try, it might be okay ...
Hmm, 55Ws is 1.32kWhs a day doing nothing.
Leaving your computer on and idle all day/night is 6kWhs a day.
Peaking at 650 is 15.6kWhs if you can do it all day!
I think my whole house in the winter (no A/C) averaged 480Ws (yes, this was using my nextbook and not my rendering system which can draw 450Ws when chewing through a rendering.)
Also, my Yamaha RX-V485 is a 80W x 5.1 channel surround sound system, so rated at 400W. I'm going to assume the electronics in it will consume an additional 100W, so 500W. My TV is 130W, my bluray player is probably 50W (it rarely gets used)
So, about 630W x 8 hours (M-F), about 5kWh/day (except for the weekends, maybe 10kWh)
Also, I do have an 8 port gigabit switch sitting there as well.
So, about 630W x 8 hours (M-F), about 5kWh/day (except for the weekends, maybe 10kWh)
Also, I do have an 8 port gigabit switch sitting there as well.
What do you mean? Series connection, you increase the voltage, Parallel connection, you increase the amperage. 10 batteries in parallel = 10 x amps = total amps.
These are what I bought: https://liionwholesale.com/products.....39566567899205
These are what I bought: https://liionwholesale.com/products.....39566567899205
Well, the idea was that I start out with this little system (to see if I can do this), and eventually work my way to what I want in the future.
I think even with my window AC units (and microwave), my peak usage is 6.7kW. Then you add the washer and dryer and future 40A EV charger (in this scenario 24kW of inverters is plenty).
The window AC units I want to eventually replace with a mini-split heat pump system.
I think even with my window AC units (and microwave), my peak usage is 6.7kW. Then you add the washer and dryer and future 40A EV charger (in this scenario 24kW of inverters is plenty).
The window AC units I want to eventually replace with a mini-split heat pump system.
Not a problem, doing a small one will let you see all the 'fun' it can be and give you some real numbers to play with before you start on the bigger project.
With the EV charger the question becomes how much solar/battery the EV might suck down - and whether that leaves you enough power to run the house? That and cloudy days are reasons to leave room to upgrade the solar/batteries if needed.
Microwaves you only run for minutes at a time (mostly) so they hardly touch your kWh averaging, it's that 'right now' demand that you have to watch out for. (for fun and possible crashes, start a print job while the microwave is nuking your snack ... )
I went with window units as to not make still more holes in this old building and the window units are easier to move elsewhere. Those mini-splits do look interesting though ...
With the EV charger the question becomes how much solar/battery the EV might suck down - and whether that leaves you enough power to run the house? That and cloudy days are reasons to leave room to upgrade the solar/batteries if needed.
Microwaves you only run for minutes at a time (mostly) so they hardly touch your kWh averaging, it's that 'right now' demand that you have to watch out for. (for fun and possible crashes, start a print job while the microwave is nuking your snack ... )
I went with window units as to not make still more holes in this old building and the window units are easier to move elsewhere. Those mini-splits do look interesting though ...
With those inverters I linked, it can be set up to draw from the grid only when battery and solar isn't enough, so if charging the EV is exceeding the limits of the batteries and solar, it will start pulling from the grid. Also, I don't remember if these are designed to export power or not (not that I plan on doing that)
Surprisingly, if all I do is go to work and back home, and the store once a week, I only drive like 1500 miles in a year.
Surprisingly, if all I do is go to work and back home, and the store once a week, I only drive like 1500 miles in a year.
(not that I plan on doing that)
Famous last words ...
A 'maybe' if your 'all-in-ones' have an extra 'generator' input option - which you then set the limits to so it doesn't kill/burn up your EV.
The inverter I got does have the option to charge the batteries from the grid, but I can't be powering the house while doing it. (nope, not even wired in at this point.)
Famous last words ...
A 'maybe' if your 'all-in-ones' have an extra 'generator' input option - which you then set the limits to so it doesn't kill/burn up your EV.
The inverter I got does have the option to charge the batteries from the grid, but I can't be powering the house while doing it. (nope, not even wired in at this point.)
They do have a generator input. Also, these can do both at the same time.
This is something that's in the manual for the 6000W one:
AC First
• AC first Start Time 1-3: The time at which the Inverter will use only AC to power loads. The range is 00:00 to 23:59.
• AC first Stop Time 1-3: The time at which the Inverter will use only AC to power loads. The range is 00:00 to 23:59.
You should take a look at the manual on Signature Solar's website.
Also, EVs are quite a bit more advanced than that... The EV "charger" is basically nothing more than a fancy GFCI for your EV (It supplies AC voltage, the EV then changes that to DC in its inverter). The EV "charger" communicates with the EV to tell it what its charging capability is. If you set it to 40A, then it tells the EV's inverter that it can supply 40A, and the EV will set its current pull to that.
This is something that's in the manual for the 6000W one:
AC First
• AC first Start Time 1-3: The time at which the Inverter will use only AC to power loads. The range is 00:00 to 23:59.
• AC first Stop Time 1-3: The time at which the Inverter will use only AC to power loads. The range is 00:00 to 23:59.
You should take a look at the manual on Signature Solar's website.
Also, EVs are quite a bit more advanced than that... The EV "charger" is basically nothing more than a fancy GFCI for your EV (It supplies AC voltage, the EV then changes that to DC in its inverter). The EV "charger" communicates with the EV to tell it what its charging capability is. If you set it to 40A, then it tells the EV's inverter that it can supply 40A, and the EV will set its current pull to that.
Yes, two sets of three sounds good for what you're working with, they sell 'Y' adapters for joining sets of panels. Also yes, the two plus go to the solar+ on the MPPT and both negative to the solar-.
Since I am 'playing' with mine, each set came down and went through a diode, meter and circuit breaker before hitting buses to join them together to hit the MPPT.
The diodes are to keep a shaded panel from drawing power from others. The meter just lets me see the volts/amps/watts from each panel set (as the meters are 100 volt max that limits how many panels per set I can run.) The circuit breakers protect each set of wires from too much current (20 amp breaker on 10AWG is overkill.) As my panels' max current claims to be 12.5 (13.5 shorted) I'd need bigger CBs to bring down any parallel sets. (and these CBs have a 110 volt max, which again limits how many panels I can put in a set. Most 'solar joiner' boxes I've seen use fuses instead of CBs to get around any voltage limits.)
As to your home brew battery set, I do hope you have a battery balancer in the mix to help keep you from having over/under charged batteries in your sets.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Equa...../dp/B07L8WKKC3
Were the ones I picked up, before that I was taking my battery sets apart every six months or so and re-matching them up into like sets.
I see more comments below, I'll get to them as I can.
Since I am 'playing' with mine, each set came down and went through a diode, meter and circuit breaker before hitting buses to join them together to hit the MPPT.
The diodes are to keep a shaded panel from drawing power from others. The meter just lets me see the volts/amps/watts from each panel set (as the meters are 100 volt max that limits how many panels per set I can run.) The circuit breakers protect each set of wires from too much current (20 amp breaker on 10AWG is overkill.) As my panels' max current claims to be 12.5 (13.5 shorted) I'd need bigger CBs to bring down any parallel sets. (and these CBs have a 110 volt max, which again limits how many panels I can put in a set. Most 'solar joiner' boxes I've seen use fuses instead of CBs to get around any voltage limits.)
As to your home brew battery set, I do hope you have a battery balancer in the mix to help keep you from having over/under charged batteries in your sets.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Equa...../dp/B07L8WKKC3
Were the ones I picked up, before that I was taking my battery sets apart every six months or so and re-matching them up into like sets.
I see more comments below, I'll get to them as I can.
The BMS I bought does active balancing. This one here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CW5Q8HZ4 Plus you can parallel them (basically connect multiple battery packs in parallel, with each battery pack having the same BMS)
Comments