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Well, I just finished it about an hour ago. Took me about a week. BTW, does anyone know how best to work with clear plastic windows. As you can see, I failed at it. *grumble*
Category Photography / Miscellaneous
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1280 x 960px
File Size 161 kB
Is this the old Revell Monogram 1/48 P-61? Nice work !!
My advice with clear parts is to wear clean latex gloves when handling them to transfering any paint, thinners or glue on to them which could damage them.
Some modellers dip clear parts in Future floor polish (or whatever it's now called in the USA) to protect them if they're glued down with superglue.
If you do use superglue i'd recommend a non-fogging type as it avoids ruining the clear part if the super glue 'fogs up'.
Another option is to use plastic cement but VERY sparingly along the edges. If you apply too much, it'll squeeze out everywhere and make a big mess.
The other option is to use gator glue (like super glue, but you get a longer working time and it doesn't fog up) or a Humbrol Clearfix like product which dries clear and is gap filling.
If you want any model building advice just send me a PM, i've got a few years experience under my belt and if there's something i can't help with i have a whole list of contacts who could help
My advice with clear parts is to wear clean latex gloves when handling them to transfering any paint, thinners or glue on to them which could damage them.
Some modellers dip clear parts in Future floor polish (or whatever it's now called in the USA) to protect them if they're glued down with superglue.
If you do use superglue i'd recommend a non-fogging type as it avoids ruining the clear part if the super glue 'fogs up'.
Another option is to use plastic cement but VERY sparingly along the edges. If you apply too much, it'll squeeze out everywhere and make a big mess.
The other option is to use gator glue (like super glue, but you get a longer working time and it doesn't fog up) or a Humbrol Clearfix like product which dries clear and is gap filling.
If you want any model building advice just send me a PM, i've got a few years experience under my belt and if there's something i can't help with i have a whole list of contacts who could help
Are you serious about using Cyanoacrylate cement within a mile of clear styrene? Never, REPEAT never use it in that capacity! It's guaranteed to fog the plastic!
Proper liquid cement can be used if properly applied with an 000 paintbrush. The other option is to use clear setting Glu-Bird or Elmer's.
I got used to using professional liquid cement on clear parts over 35 years ago, then sanding the attach points so they looked like the framework was part of the fuselage. In other words, no damn gaps.
After that was done I would use frisket paper and a frisket knife to mask the clear parts from the framework. The result was beautiful.
Sorry if I come off like a dick, but I have a wealth of knowledge on model making. I'm no Verlinden but he was nuts anyway.
Look back in my files to see some of my models.
Proper liquid cement can be used if properly applied with an 000 paintbrush. The other option is to use clear setting Glu-Bird or Elmer's.
I got used to using professional liquid cement on clear parts over 35 years ago, then sanding the attach points so they looked like the framework was part of the fuselage. In other words, no damn gaps.
After that was done I would use frisket paper and a frisket knife to mask the clear parts from the framework. The result was beautiful.
Sorry if I come off like a dick, but I have a wealth of knowledge on model making. I'm no Verlinden but he was nuts anyway.
Look back in my files to see some of my models.
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