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Fursuiting / Comics
Species Hyena
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So I'm building a Hyena Brigade uniform to wear to cons. I've been collecting the parts for it at thrift stores for months now. I've bought two jackets before I found this one, which is nearly perfect--all it needed was the gold cuffs and collar piping, and a few ornaments...
Okay, I thought I knew how to sew. This coat is an Ann Taylor rain jacket, and it's as thick as elephant hide. I am so glad I discovered Liquid Stitch, otherwise I'd never have gotten the collar piping on. The gold trim is from cotton canvas harvested from a pair of shorts. The jacket is a size too small, unfortunately, so it fits VERY snug, and I have limited movement of my arms.
The medals I purchased on eBay, and the aiguillette comes from an old band jacket. The belt is miraculously close to the type I've been drawing, a solid buckle that has a pin in it. The trousers were on sale at Walmart and the boots are from Goodwill.
I bought some lieutenant's bars and am trying to make shoulderboards, but they're proving tricky to make. And then my hair will cover them up, of course!
The mask I bought in a costume shop in San Antonio and repainted from black and silver. It's suffocating. The ears are fabric sleeves over "cartilage" cut from iced tea jugs to make them larger than the mask's ears. I couldn't figure out a way to create a hood that didn't look stupid, so I'm using my own hair, with a mane of faux fur on top.
There will be a tail, and I have brown velvet gloves to wear, but I couldn't work the camera with them on.
The mask isn't completed yet--I need to get tufts of fur to conceal the join--and I have no intention of trying to put anything on my chin. I may even not wear the mask at all because it's stifling. Be a shame to waste all that effort, though.
The uniform cost me about $30 in parts. The mask itself cost $40.
I hope to wear this to AnthrOhio at the end of May.
My husband says he's going to come as "the supportive husband."
Okay, I thought I knew how to sew. This coat is an Ann Taylor rain jacket, and it's as thick as elephant hide. I am so glad I discovered Liquid Stitch, otherwise I'd never have gotten the collar piping on. The gold trim is from cotton canvas harvested from a pair of shorts. The jacket is a size too small, unfortunately, so it fits VERY snug, and I have limited movement of my arms.
The medals I purchased on eBay, and the aiguillette comes from an old band jacket. The belt is miraculously close to the type I've been drawing, a solid buckle that has a pin in it. The trousers were on sale at Walmart and the boots are from Goodwill.
I bought some lieutenant's bars and am trying to make shoulderboards, but they're proving tricky to make. And then my hair will cover them up, of course!
The mask I bought in a costume shop in San Antonio and repainted from black and silver. It's suffocating. The ears are fabric sleeves over "cartilage" cut from iced tea jugs to make them larger than the mask's ears. I couldn't figure out a way to create a hood that didn't look stupid, so I'm using my own hair, with a mane of faux fur on top.
There will be a tail, and I have brown velvet gloves to wear, but I couldn't work the camera with them on.
The mask isn't completed yet--I need to get tufts of fur to conceal the join--and I have no intention of trying to put anything on my chin. I may even not wear the mask at all because it's stifling. Be a shame to waste all that effort, though.
The uniform cost me about $30 in parts. The mask itself cost $40.
I hope to wear this to AnthrOhio at the end of May.
My husband says he's going to come as "the supportive husband."
Category Fursuiting / Comics
Species Hyena
Size 200 x 638px
File Size 24.2 kB
Thank you! It's more frustration than work, because the fabric's proving difficult to stitch. I wanted to put more buttons on it but I couldn't get them straight in line. The lt's bars go through the cardboard of the shoulder boards, but not enough for the spring clips to hold onto. So I have to rethink that and maybe go with just the grosgrain fabric. And I can't get them to attach well, anyway.
I was debating getting a foam rapier--I've discovered they sell very realistic cosplay swords--but that might just be in the way.
The mask slips down a little as I wear it because it's held up by a silk ribbon. I'm worried the teeth make me look like a Dorkfish. I'm also debating cutting nostril holes, but I doubt they's help, and would probably ruin the mask entirely.
I'm also a little worried about getting scolded for using real military medals. I'm hoping that using them as part of a fantasy costume won't rile anybody.
I was debating getting a foam rapier--I've discovered they sell very realistic cosplay swords--but that might just be in the way.
The mask slips down a little as I wear it because it's held up by a silk ribbon. I'm worried the teeth make me look like a Dorkfish. I'm also debating cutting nostril holes, but I doubt they's help, and would probably ruin the mask entirely.
I'm also a little worried about getting scolded for using real military medals. I'm hoping that using them as part of a fantasy costume won't rile anybody.
Using real medals will piss someone off- I can just about guarantee it.
Theres a lot of angst and anger over "stolen valor" these days...And some folks go apeshit over it.
Theres a cheat you can do- Remove the medallions from the ribbons, and use large copper alloy or silver foreign coins in their place.
Then its no longer a "real" medal. (I have a friend who did that- just used the tails side, drilled a single hole for the attaching ring, and never had a problem.)
You can use the heads side for some medals- It just depends on what the original country stamped on it.
Just about any coin shop will have a bin or two of foreign coins you can pick through for under a buck a piece.
It would take a serious jackass to object to just using the ribbon part. (There are such people out there- but not usually at a furry con.)
I quit wearing swords with cosplays years ago- They really do get in the way, and many cons don't allow any weapons with cosplays, anyway.
I can't offer any advice on the mask without seeing and handling it, real life.
Sorry.
For cosplay uniform work, I often had to do a lot of hand stitching with heavy glover's needles for detailing.
Sadly, much of my experience is not easily expressed through text in order to help...But there are some things I can do.
PM me if you have any questions I might be able to help on, and I'll see what I can manage.
-Badger-
Theres a lot of angst and anger over "stolen valor" these days...And some folks go apeshit over it.
Theres a cheat you can do- Remove the medallions from the ribbons, and use large copper alloy or silver foreign coins in their place.
Then its no longer a "real" medal. (I have a friend who did that- just used the tails side, drilled a single hole for the attaching ring, and never had a problem.)
You can use the heads side for some medals- It just depends on what the original country stamped on it.
Just about any coin shop will have a bin or two of foreign coins you can pick through for under a buck a piece.
It would take a serious jackass to object to just using the ribbon part. (There are such people out there- but not usually at a furry con.)
I quit wearing swords with cosplays years ago- They really do get in the way, and many cons don't allow any weapons with cosplays, anyway.
I can't offer any advice on the mask without seeing and handling it, real life.
Sorry.
For cosplay uniform work, I often had to do a lot of hand stitching with heavy glover's needles for detailing.
Sadly, much of my experience is not easily expressed through text in order to help...But there are some things I can do.
PM me if you have any questions I might be able to help on, and I'll see what I can manage.
-Badger-
Swapping out or (carefully) disguising the medallions sounds like a very good idea. As someone who has a lot of military in my family, I can agree that it can come across as disrespectful to wear unearned medals, because they can mean so much to either the people who earned them or to people related to them. Medals are, unsurprisingly, a major touchstone for memories, since they're generally awarded for significant events. I once asked my mother if I could wear my grandfather's medals (that he gained fighting on Okinawa in WW2) as part of a cosplay, and she got a very hurt look as if I'd just accidentally dropped their display case on the floor and broken it. She didn't go "apeshit", but it clearly didn't sit right with her and made her upset.
I wonder how difficult it would be to -make- costume medallions... hmm.
I wonder how difficult it would be to -make- costume medallions... hmm.
The medals I bought, I chose because they don't have any human representations on them. One is for Air Force Combat Readiness, one is Armed Forces Reserve, and the third is National Guard Achievement. So not exactly medals awarded "for valor." The two I'm not using are an American Campaign medal from WW II, which is a retired design, and a Army Achievement medal, which is rather high up on the list of precedence. Yes, there's a list, and yes, I checked to make sure I pinned them on in the correct order, starting with the highest medal closest to the heart.
Using foreign coins would not work because most have human heads on them. The obverses could be used, I suppose, but then I'd have to get the coins, drill holes in them, get sturdy jump rings, take apart the medals--which I think is FAR MORE disrespectful than just wearing them--and try to put the coins on the ribbons--which, incidentally, are STILL identified as part of a military award, since it's the colored patterns of the ribbons by which one identifies the medal, and which are what most US soldiers wear on their uniforms on those bars on their chests.
I had intended to get some costume medals, but couldn't find any, and old foreign medals are very ex$pen$ive. I mean, in the hundreds of dollars. Second hand American medals are about five to ten dollars each, and widely available at Army/Navy stores and on line.
I understand and respect the feelings about "stolen valor." But these medals would be thrown away...they were sold or disposed of by their original owners. Somehow they ended up on the secondary market. They may never even have been awarded. I'm not claiming I actually won them.
Using foreign coins would not work because most have human heads on them. The obverses could be used, I suppose, but then I'd have to get the coins, drill holes in them, get sturdy jump rings, take apart the medals--which I think is FAR MORE disrespectful than just wearing them--and try to put the coins on the ribbons--which, incidentally, are STILL identified as part of a military award, since it's the colored patterns of the ribbons by which one identifies the medal, and which are what most US soldiers wear on their uniforms on those bars on their chests.
I had intended to get some costume medals, but couldn't find any, and old foreign medals are very ex$pen$ive. I mean, in the hundreds of dollars. Second hand American medals are about five to ten dollars each, and widely available at Army/Navy stores and on line.
I understand and respect the feelings about "stolen valor." But these medals would be thrown away...they were sold or disposed of by their original owners. Somehow they ended up on the secondary market. They may never even have been awarded. I'm not claiming I actually won them.
Any advice on how to make a pair of epaulettes (or really, shoulderboards) from grosgrain ribbon?
I'm on my fourth attempt. The first two used thin cardboard with the ribbon folded around it. The first I just folded and glued, and the corners looked like hell. The second I did a pointed fold over on the two small ends. It looked better but the lieutenant bars I bought won't stay on because the cardboard's too thick for the pincher clasps to grip the posts properly.
The third attempt, I just folded the ribbon, but they came out too long, so I have to cut them down and try again. I cut them longer so I could sew one end to the jacket and have the other end affixed at the collar by snaps, after seeing Newkirk making a German uniform for Colonel Hogan with the epaulettes fixed on that way.
This isn't supposed to be this difficult. I got glue everywhere because the bottle is a little stiff and in folding the ribbon I got some on my fingers and then things went downhill from there.
This uniform is so much simpler to draw!
I'm on my fourth attempt. The first two used thin cardboard with the ribbon folded around it. The first I just folded and glued, and the corners looked like hell. The second I did a pointed fold over on the two small ends. It looked better but the lieutenant bars I bought won't stay on because the cardboard's too thick for the pincher clasps to grip the posts properly.
The third attempt, I just folded the ribbon, but they came out too long, so I have to cut them down and try again. I cut them longer so I could sew one end to the jacket and have the other end affixed at the collar by snaps, after seeing Newkirk making a German uniform for Colonel Hogan with the epaulettes fixed on that way.
This isn't supposed to be this difficult. I got glue everywhere because the bottle is a little stiff and in folding the ribbon I got some on my fingers and then things went downhill from there.
This uniform is so much simpler to draw!
Hmm...
Okay, without seeing how you are doing this, or knowing which attachment method you are going for, I can only offer advice based on an assumption that you are going for a slip on type.
This uses a single thin loop near the shoulder, a single button near the collar, and the board has a narrow strip of cloth that slips under the loop, then fastens with the button going through board and strip.
Theres at least 4 types of shoulder board or epaulette, and all fasten differently.
For the backing-
You'll need to use a thin cardboard that is more like heavy cardstock. Or use thin plastic, like the sides of a gallon milk jug.
Counted stitch plastic mesh could be used also, but the layers would need hand stitching, because it will resist machine sewing.
Use a cover of thin cloth over this, and just glue it on top and wrap the edges, making relief cuts along the way so it lies flat.
You can glue or stitch down another piece of fabric over the bottom after, folded to hide its edges, which will cover the folded edges from the top layer.
Stiff felt can be used instead or cardboard, and can be more easily sewn through.
If you use craft felt, you'll need to stack it at least three layers deep and glue it.
The glue should stiffen it, but will make it harder to sew.
Your bottom layering piece should be folded and sewn, and add a buttonhole or eyelet to make the narrow mounting strip.
You can sew all around the edge, top stitch it by hand, or just glue it.
Ribbon braid used on shoulder boards always lies flat, along the outer edge.
It does not wrap over the sides, as that method cannot be made to lie flat on the bottom edge.
As you have seen already.
A way to do this, assuming I have figured out the way you are looking for, is to take a single long strip of braid.
find the halfway point, and fold two 45 degree corners to make an arrowhead shape.
Lay this down on top of the board and stitch or glue down- Here are your two stripes.
Width dependent on the width of the board and the ribbon used.
Make a button hole in the pointed end near the collar between the edges of the ribbon.
Take the ribbon all the way to the flat end and just run it down over that edge and stitch down the bottom cover.
Now your stripes are flat and the end seams are finished.
I think I covered everything, but please ask me any further questions you might have.
I only needed to make epaulettes about three times in 20 years of costuming, and there may be details I have forgotten.
-Badger-
Okay, without seeing how you are doing this, or knowing which attachment method you are going for, I can only offer advice based on an assumption that you are going for a slip on type.
This uses a single thin loop near the shoulder, a single button near the collar, and the board has a narrow strip of cloth that slips under the loop, then fastens with the button going through board and strip.
Theres at least 4 types of shoulder board or epaulette, and all fasten differently.
For the backing-
You'll need to use a thin cardboard that is more like heavy cardstock. Or use thin plastic, like the sides of a gallon milk jug.
Counted stitch plastic mesh could be used also, but the layers would need hand stitching, because it will resist machine sewing.
Use a cover of thin cloth over this, and just glue it on top and wrap the edges, making relief cuts along the way so it lies flat.
You can glue or stitch down another piece of fabric over the bottom after, folded to hide its edges, which will cover the folded edges from the top layer.
Stiff felt can be used instead or cardboard, and can be more easily sewn through.
If you use craft felt, you'll need to stack it at least three layers deep and glue it.
The glue should stiffen it, but will make it harder to sew.
Your bottom layering piece should be folded and sewn, and add a buttonhole or eyelet to make the narrow mounting strip.
You can sew all around the edge, top stitch it by hand, or just glue it.
Ribbon braid used on shoulder boards always lies flat, along the outer edge.
It does not wrap over the sides, as that method cannot be made to lie flat on the bottom edge.
As you have seen already.
A way to do this, assuming I have figured out the way you are looking for, is to take a single long strip of braid.
find the halfway point, and fold two 45 degree corners to make an arrowhead shape.
Lay this down on top of the board and stitch or glue down- Here are your two stripes.
Width dependent on the width of the board and the ribbon used.
Make a button hole in the pointed end near the collar between the edges of the ribbon.
Take the ribbon all the way to the flat end and just run it down over that edge and stitch down the bottom cover.
Now your stripes are flat and the end seams are finished.
I think I covered everything, but please ask me any further questions you might have.
I only needed to make epaulettes about three times in 20 years of costuming, and there may be details I have forgotten.
-Badger-
That's fairly detailed, and I thank you.
What I'm doing at the moment is folding the edges on a two-inch strip of grosgrain ribbon, and then stitching around the edges. The problem is that the strap is now thinner than I'd like it to be.
I was going to sew it to the shoulder, but your suggestion of a loop will work much better and make it easily replaceable.
I started with cardboard, but it was too thick for the lieutenant bar pins. Cardstock I did not think of.
The shoulder boards in the comic are just white rectangles. In my head, they're sewn to the tunic, and the bars have old-fashioned pinbacks that hod them on. That's how Fred was able to use one as a fishing lure.
What I'm doing at the moment is folding the edges on a two-inch strip of grosgrain ribbon, and then stitching around the edges. The problem is that the strap is now thinner than I'd like it to be.
I was going to sew it to the shoulder, but your suggestion of a loop will work much better and make it easily replaceable.
I started with cardboard, but it was too thick for the lieutenant bar pins. Cardstock I did not think of.
The shoulder boards in the comic are just white rectangles. In my head, they're sewn to the tunic, and the bars have old-fashioned pinbacks that hod them on. That's how Fred was able to use one as a fishing lure.
Thank you! What I didn't say is how many accessories I bought that I did not end up using...like the pectoral collar, which looks like the one I drew on General Jinjur in the strip, but which gets in the way of the top button and is difficult to put on, or the other two jackets and other pair of trousers (which will be going back to Goodwill.)
I also bought a child's fur jacket to use for the hood, as well as a dog costume lion mane, but in the end, the hood just looked too big--like Neckbeard--and I was having problems with getting it to fit inside the uniform collar. The fact that my hair and the fur mane on the mask are almost the same color(s) made me opt to just have my hair loose. I'll need to dress it to hide the ribbon of the mask.
I also bought a child's fur jacket to use for the hood, as well as a dog costume lion mane, but in the end, the hood just looked too big--like Neckbeard--and I was having problems with getting it to fit inside the uniform collar. The fact that my hair and the fur mane on the mask are almost the same color(s) made me opt to just have my hair loose. I'll need to dress it to hide the ribbon of the mask.
There's a rubber "hyena" mask for ~$30 on eBay, but I'm slightly claustrophobic and would probably suffocate even worse in it.
I had thought about using the mask I have as a base and gluing fur onto it, but decided to go with paint because fur would obscure most of the molded details.
A fursuit head would be out of scale with the uniform jacket by about 25%.
Now, there's a group here on FA selling custom printed fursuit head bases, which are fairly species-accurate (as opposed to cartoony) and these start at $80. A clever bit of dowitcherselfery could create a head, but again, it would be bigger than the collar on the jacket.
I had also considered going the "Cats" route, with stage make-up, but that might look REALLY lame without the pro to apply it.
And then there's the question of making a "realistic" hyena head, or a "comic-accurate" one.
I had thought about using the mask I have as a base and gluing fur onto it, but decided to go with paint because fur would obscure most of the molded details.
A fursuit head would be out of scale with the uniform jacket by about 25%.
Now, there's a group here on FA selling custom printed fursuit head bases, which are fairly species-accurate (as opposed to cartoony) and these start at $80. A clever bit of dowitcherselfery could create a head, but again, it would be bigger than the collar on the jacket.
I had also considered going the "Cats" route, with stage make-up, but that might look REALLY lame without the pro to apply it.
And then there's the question of making a "realistic" hyena head, or a "comic-accurate" one.
Thank you--I think once I have the ears finished, and can get my husband to take better photos in better lighting, it'll look smashing.
I was debating whether to get a shaggy black wig and some round glasses, and go as "Human Fred," but I'd probably get mistaken for Harry Potter.
I was debating whether to get a shaggy black wig and some round glasses, and go as "Human Fred," but I'd probably get mistaken for Harry Potter.
Since thos is all scavenged from thrift stores, my advice is to start looking for a suitable jacket. This one is a double-breasted coat that miraculously is the right color, the right length, and can be made to close the correct way.
This one's magenta, but it's very similar in style to what I started with:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ann-Taylor.....AAAOSwNHJc2b5Y
Here's another:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ann-Taylor.....kAAOSwxNxbVL7y
Something like this could be made to work:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ANN-TAYLOR.....0AAOSw11BcOXRW
Or this, for another Brigade unit's colors:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ann-Taylor.....kAAOSwMjpcAIQn
This one's magenta, but it's very similar in style to what I started with:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ann-Taylor.....AAAOSwNHJc2b5Y
Here's another:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ann-Taylor.....kAAOSwxNxbVL7y
Something like this could be made to work:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ANN-TAYLOR.....0AAOSw11BcOXRW
Or this, for another Brigade unit's colors:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ann-Taylor.....kAAOSwMjpcAIQn
For guys, try searching "men's double-breasted trench coat red"--
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Men-Slim-Double-Breasted-Long-Trench-Coat-Trenchcoat-Jacket-Male-Black-Coat/253151235415?var=552239026733&hash=item3af0fd4d57:g:lmoAAOSwYIxX9RYK
The collar would have to be sewn into a standing collar.
There's this one, that almost works right out of the box:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Casual-Jacket-Double-Breasted-High-Neck-Slim-Fit-Short-Jacket-Trench-Coat/273309318561?var=572661877189&hash=item3fa2813da1:g:y8oAAOSw0O9bKYr5
And this one's pretty cool:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-Double-Breasted-Belt-Trench-Coat-Jacket-Lapel-Peacoat-Outwear-Windbreaker/391875865221?var=660860360037&hash=item5b3d9f2a85:g:TEMAAOSwxzBZpYIn
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Men-Slim-Double-Breasted-Long-Trench-Coat-Trenchcoat-Jacket-Male-Black-Coat/253151235415?var=552239026733&hash=item3af0fd4d57:g:lmoAAOSwYIxX9RYK
The collar would have to be sewn into a standing collar.
There's this one, that almost works right out of the box:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Casual-Jacket-Double-Breasted-High-Neck-Slim-Fit-Short-Jacket-Trench-Coat/273309318561?var=572661877189&hash=item3fa2813da1:g:y8oAAOSw0O9bKYr5
And this one's pretty cool:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-Double-Breasted-Belt-Trench-Coat-Jacket-Lapel-Peacoat-Outwear-Windbreaker/391875865221?var=660860360037&hash=item5b3d9f2a85:g:TEMAAOSwxzBZpYIn
5/14:
I made the tail today from a bit of some gorgeous spotted fur fabric that I originally bought to make a life-sized plush hyena. It looks pretty good. I need to tailor the trousers to take in the waist a bit, and pin the tail on the don--er, on the cartoonist.
The one drawback is that it spoils the smooth line of the uniform in the back, but I think I can fiddle with it. The tail's only partially stuffed to give it some shape, so I could mush the fiberfill around a bit.
My car's in the shop, so I can't run to the fabric store to get the fluff for the ears. I have lots of plush fabric--down at my other place 200 miles south of here. I don't know that I'd have the right stuff, though, so I am best off going to the fabric store. I need about five square inches of fur, that's all.
Well, maybe a little more, if I opt to give the mask cheek ruffs to help transition from the mask to my hair.
I still need to glue on the ear sleeves, then pierce the ears for the earring studs.
I made the tail today from a bit of some gorgeous spotted fur fabric that I originally bought to make a life-sized plush hyena. It looks pretty good. I need to tailor the trousers to take in the waist a bit, and pin the tail on the don--er, on the cartoonist.
The one drawback is that it spoils the smooth line of the uniform in the back, but I think I can fiddle with it. The tail's only partially stuffed to give it some shape, so I could mush the fiberfill around a bit.
My car's in the shop, so I can't run to the fabric store to get the fluff for the ears. I have lots of plush fabric--down at my other place 200 miles south of here. I don't know that I'd have the right stuff, though, so I am best off going to the fabric store. I need about five square inches of fur, that's all.
Well, maybe a little more, if I opt to give the mask cheek ruffs to help transition from the mask to my hair.
I still need to glue on the ear sleeves, then pierce the ears for the earring studs.
Not sure if this will still help you or not, but if I'm in a pinch and can't easily sew something or don't know how, I use hot glue. Depending on the surface, it will either work really well or not at all, however. Hot glue works wonders on fabrics, though be sure to use high temp hot glue so as to avoid worrying about it making a mess in a dryer.
Also, if you're doing this over another piece of fabric (like applying a patch to jeans) you must use wax paper beneath the fabric. Hot glue, especially if it's very hot, will soak through then bind the two pieces of fabric together, rendering it unusable. However, if you use the wax paper, the glue doesn't go through and once cool and dry, the paper comes right off.
I recommend experimenting with it first, though. I discovered the many perks and perils of hot glue after lots of trial and error. Also burns. Lots of burns.
Also, if you're doing this over another piece of fabric (like applying a patch to jeans) you must use wax paper beneath the fabric. Hot glue, especially if it's very hot, will soak through then bind the two pieces of fabric together, rendering it unusable. However, if you use the wax paper, the glue doesn't go through and once cool and dry, the paper comes right off.
I recommend experimenting with it first, though. I discovered the many perks and perils of hot glue after lots of trial and error. Also burns. Lots of burns.
My experience with hot glue has not been positive. It cooled too quickly and didn't make a good bond, and it was clumsy and messy in application. I may have been victim of a cheap glue gun. But I never used it after that one attempt.
I've found that Aleen's Tacky Glue works great on most applications, and it dries slowly enough that you can smoosh parts around for the best fit, while stuff like airplane glue or superglue dries instantly and you're literally stuck if you didn't get the parts in the right position. I've also started using Liquid Stitch to bind fabric togather, because it stays flexible where other glued get stiff.
I've found that Aleen's Tacky Glue works great on most applications, and it dries slowly enough that you can smoosh parts around for the best fit, while stuff like airplane glue or superglue dries instantly and you're literally stuck if you didn't get the parts in the right position. I've also started using Liquid Stitch to bind fabric togather, because it stays flexible where other glued get stiff.
Actually, I have a pro glue gun, both mini and large, both are dual temps and... yeah, it's pretty messy. Sometimes it will bond, sometimes it won't, some materials it actually melts while bonding. Like I said, I like it for repairing RC car bodies and for helping seal up an RC boat hull. I've used it to reinforce a patch in some jeans, but that's pretty much it. Oh, and I add glow in the dark to some things. Because crafty things are fun. =P
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