Hello all, something of a different direction for me. I tinkered with a horse dragon/angel dragon styled head base for fursuits/cosplay. It’s pretty horsey so could be appropriate for horse sonas
Since I'm switching gears to pattern development from commissioned based work I am working on a tutorial for this. The tutorial will be $12.00 USD due to the instructional length and size of the template spread. Tutorial coming soon. I want to get this out and finish a plush before the end of January (send help, I’ve been so lazy over the holiday.)
This head base involves *no carving.* None. It is made mostly from 1/4 inch high density foam with some thin EVA foam as internal supports. The muzzle has a small 1/2 inch foam support in the center/middle to help prevent collapse from a strong impact.
I have found this method to be light weight, strong for what it is, and resilient (I could bounce it like a ball on my work desk and it would bounce back into shape)
It has a moving jaw and the tutorial features a suggested way to mount the base onto a balaclava for jaw movement.
Pros: As previously stated it’s light weight and resilient to impacts. It’s symmetrical. You don’t really need any special equipment beyond what you already have if you’re a maker. (Glue gun, scissors, foam) You don’t need carving skills. You get consistent results. Could easily size up or down if you’re brave but the fit is rather forgiving.
Cons: It takes some patience to put together. You can’t just rush through it and expect a good result. I can’t see this base holding up any heavy resin/silicone accessories like horns or full mouth installations. Things like teeth, tongues, spikes and horns would need to be foam/fabric construction.
It can and will hold up normal fabric shells provided you aren’t making it too tight/snug. Mind your seam allowance when patterning the fur shell.
Con I noticed that’s sorta a non issue? The moving jaw touched the head some and the friction of foam against foam prevents to jaw from moving freely when unfurred/unlined. I intend to line that connection area with something slick and smooth like a lycra based material, or maybe poly satin depending on how much I hate myself. (Junk runs like crazy but it’s cheap as hell) This might not even be an issue on other head shapes and sizes.
I’ll probably notice more pros and cons as I fur. Certain parts of the pattern could be built with 1/2 foam but I’m still working out the details of that - That thickness of foam doesn’t allow for fine curves easily but would provide more support. EVA foam would also help with support but would provide its own construction issues (Like requiring beveling)
Regardless of all these variables I wanted to release the tutorial with what I know makes a nice shape with decent durability.
Thanks for reading! <3
Since I'm switching gears to pattern development from commissioned based work I am working on a tutorial for this. The tutorial will be $12.00 USD due to the instructional length and size of the template spread. Tutorial coming soon. I want to get this out and finish a plush before the end of January (send help, I’ve been so lazy over the holiday.)
This head base involves *no carving.* None. It is made mostly from 1/4 inch high density foam with some thin EVA foam as internal supports. The muzzle has a small 1/2 inch foam support in the center/middle to help prevent collapse from a strong impact.
I have found this method to be light weight, strong for what it is, and resilient (I could bounce it like a ball on my work desk and it would bounce back into shape)
It has a moving jaw and the tutorial features a suggested way to mount the base onto a balaclava for jaw movement.
Pros: As previously stated it’s light weight and resilient to impacts. It’s symmetrical. You don’t really need any special equipment beyond what you already have if you’re a maker. (Glue gun, scissors, foam) You don’t need carving skills. You get consistent results. Could easily size up or down if you’re brave but the fit is rather forgiving.
Cons: It takes some patience to put together. You can’t just rush through it and expect a good result. I can’t see this base holding up any heavy resin/silicone accessories like horns or full mouth installations. Things like teeth, tongues, spikes and horns would need to be foam/fabric construction.
It can and will hold up normal fabric shells provided you aren’t making it too tight/snug. Mind your seam allowance when patterning the fur shell.
Con I noticed that’s sorta a non issue? The moving jaw touched the head some and the friction of foam against foam prevents to jaw from moving freely when unfurred/unlined. I intend to line that connection area with something slick and smooth like a lycra based material, or maybe poly satin depending on how much I hate myself. (Junk runs like crazy but it’s cheap as hell) This might not even be an issue on other head shapes and sizes.
I’ll probably notice more pros and cons as I fur. Certain parts of the pattern could be built with 1/2 foam but I’m still working out the details of that - That thickness of foam doesn’t allow for fine curves easily but would provide more support. EVA foam would also help with support but would provide its own construction issues (Like requiring beveling)
Regardless of all these variables I wanted to release the tutorial with what I know makes a nice shape with decent durability.
Thanks for reading! <3
Category Fursuiting / All
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1280 x 1225px
File Size 247.9 kB
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