o____O........*inserts Naughty type joke* |=| NOOOOOOOO!!!! >3< DAT SUCKS ASS!

;w; no please not whyy

There is a clear epoxy you can get at archery stores for repairing wood bows, use that stuff inside the channels of the split and try avoiding getting it to the surface of the split if you are worried about it having a lacquered look to the wood. IF you choose do it on the outside too then all well and good, if not you will have to use Linseed Oil and gently rub it down into the crack after the epoxy has dried to stop any nasty issues with dampness or heat, Linseed Oil is what the rifle was finished with originally so the color should match rather closely, maybe a patch where you use it that is a little darker then the wood around it but it will look original. I have already used this method on a much older Long LeeEnfield with a stock from 1900 and it turned up really well

Hey I really appreciate the tip mate here I was worried about needing to track down a new forend so I might as well give it a try and you probably just saved me 100 bucks also I'm a little jealous of the fact you have a Long Lee I've been trying to track one down for years I'd even settle for a Lee Metford but anyway thanks again

All good aye. Those Long Lees and the Metfords are rather rare, I kinda got lucky with it, I noticed it hidden way on the end of the rack and it looked really worse for wear so people didn't seem too interested in. I ended up sweating all the crap out of the stock and getting it as bare wood as I could and then Oiled it with Linseed again it looks beautiful, and it shoots better then most SMLEs I have used too

And this Kiddies is why I carried and used a "Reenactment grade" rifle when I did reenactments. Just to avoid this.

I kept my 'Pretty' gun for display, used my beater for banging. Shooting blanks allows you to use a shot up bore and not worry about it.

Doing British 5th Commando, British 6th Paras, I had a training grade Mk IV that I got for $60 for that purpose, Oddly enough the bolt and bore are immaculate.

Doing US 30th and 1st Divisions, I had a 'beater' M1 Garand and my show M1. The beater was in case I took a hit and did a 'decent death'. I only recently sold my beater M1 for $900 (paid $250 initially).

And German 10th Panzer, I acquired a Ex-Israeli K-98 rebarreled in .308, makes for far cheaper blanks. Allowing me to keep my clean K-98 for show, or carry my Walther K-43.

I can spot an AK47 anywhere!

*cringe worthy gun comment*

Numrich had no4 fore ends when I was fixing a sporter a couple years ago. Even had some that were rotten at the rear for dirt cheap. Ended up chopping the old chopped down sporterized one and the new with a deep V shape and using a couple brass ishapore screws and wood glue to get one nice one out of the two junky ones.

Bet they've got no1 wood too.

Hey mate thanks for the info, I just checked Numrich and sadly they didn't have any fore ends for the no1 and it seems like when they had them they were going for a good price. The only place I've had luck with is a site called liberty tree collectors, and they want $100 for a fore end off of a DP rifle, that just sounds like a bit much to me.

DP are gonna be BEAT, too

Brass screws were a pretty common repair back when these were new, glue the crack and jam a screw through it and it's good as new. Where it's at makes it kinda tough on yours though.
Might be able to get in from the end along the bore axis. Speaking of the screws to hunt down, stainless steel is much more common now than brass in real long lengths, and they're still a lot softer than normal hardened steel screws (or at least they strip out the head a lot easier). Looking like you'll want some that are just about 6" long to get down through the crack from the end of the stock. Might even need to go to normal steel for that kind of length, no big deal.

Glue it back together best as you can, then get a long drill bit right about the same diameter as the screw's shank to drill a pilot hole as deep as the screw will be in the stock. The pilot hole will keep the wood from splitting. Dip the screws in linseed oil before putting them in, and center the threaded portion on the break. Trim off the head and exposed portion of the shank and it should be stronger than before it broke.

At least that's what I'd do before spending a hundred bucks on some wood.