2 part epoxy, its sandable and can be colored with a bit of black or white art paint it wont be a perfect match but the epoxy is tough
any inconsistency's can be sanded to fit better

just an idea

that's what i was thinking...

JB Weld it is....

but now i gotta figure out how to re-attach
the A# key in a way the joint can flex...

it snapped off at the hinge point which was just
a really thin part where it was flexible enough
to function but strong enough to hold the key
in place.

i shelfed it for a few months,
its been like this since last November...

(err. i took it down to delicately pose it)

jb weld though is heavy id go for clear epoxys they have a weight more like the plastic
as for flexable try various materials of the same thickness see which flexes better it can be with the epoxy pretty much permanently affixed to the key

does the board have a return spring or is it the material that hinges thats the return to state ? that too will effect how you chose material

There's no springs,
the black keys are on a separate piece of plastic then the white keys but the entire keyboard
is made of only 2 pieces of injection molded plastic, one for the black keys and one for the white.
in fact, the the entire keyboard of is somewhat flexible plastic.
but the keys have extruded frames inside to keep their shape.

the keyboards are like combs, where the teeth of the comb would be the keys
and the spine of the comb would be the "frame" the keys are on,

The "Spring" is just a little dome switch under the key, but the key is attached to the frame by a thin piece of plastic that flexes, and thats where it snapped,

that thin piece of plastic was all that holds the key in place,
save for the little hook at the end of the key that acts as a backstop
to keep the key from going too far up, (it hooks on the case of the keyboard)

there is very little room for error, the white keys are skinnier then a dime is wide
and the black ones are just a little wider then a pencil.. its a very tiny set of keys.

i think i can make a new flexible hinge out of the plastic used to hold stuff like
hot wheels cars and tubes of glue to the package they come in from the store.

but i will have to dremel away some of the old key and frame D:
i hope i dont make it worse... but i need a flat place to glue a new hinge to,
that, and the glue probably would stick to a rough surface better.

yep that kind of plastic would work well as a hinge use a piece of sand paper (320 or so) folded on itself use the factory edge and put it flat on a
smooth surface sand just a pass at a time till you get the right depth on the key for the hinge plastic dremel would be faster but far less accurate

the epoxy if you clean everything with denatured alcohol let it dry then dont get any skin oil on the places to be glued a piece of tape to hold the
hinge on and let it sit 5 minute epoxy is a good choice doesn't take forever to set and thus less chance of it moving or getting out of alignment

gah cant tell ive fixed a few things that there was no replacement parts for LOL argon stainless tubing welder head blew a hole through the insulator plastic to ground kept shorting out as it got half way done 2 part epoxy ended up stronger and far better insulator than the original phenolic plastic
i found out later a new head for that welder was $9K bucks

since i had the parts laying around, i re attached it :D
i went ahead and used my dremel (i have a pretty steady hand)
i went over it with an exacto knife afterwards to get a good straght edge,
i tried some of that plastic and after staring at it for a while i realised it would be too weak,
so i took the rear cover of an old computer case i had and ripped the label off,
(the plastic part that shows symbols for the ports and stuff)
i used my exacto knife to match it to the notch i cut in the bottom of the key, then used a pair
of hemostats to clamp that piece of plastic to the other piece while the superglue dried,
the way i cut it, the plastic makes firm contact with the bottom of the hollow key all the way around, so i roughed that up and just used a little superglue to fuse it in place, then i glued that to the frame after trimming the
hinge i made, i applied glue then i moved it around and slid a screwdriver under the key till it lined up visually with the other ones

it has a nice solid bond (i used some glue that sets almost instantly)
since this part of the key is well hidden i didnt care too much how it looked, only that it function,

its solid when you tug on it, so im happy, it doesnt have the lateral stability i hoped for though
(the key wiggles left and right a bit) but at least it aint goin nowhere :D

im a tad too impatent to take my time and do things right the first time.
so i went a little overkill. (i have been bored as hell over the past few days and really needed something to do)

right now its sitting in front of me fully assembled and its on :D

when i turned it on i remembered out that i had bypassed the filter a while back,
so the sound is a little rough. i need to put a resistor back in and remove a jumper wire i put in,

some day im gonna put a proper line out on it, but for now its just
a twisted pair soldered to a headphone jack :D

the good thing is IT WORKS :D


XD
i dont have to take the whole thing apart the next
time i need to take the keyboard off because it all comes off the front,

there is a panel that snaps in place over the screws that hold the keys in,
so im not gonna put that panel back on yet... i still need to fill the white keys,
but i could just temporarily tape Popsicle sticks to the ends :D

i didn't even bother to solder the speaker back in yet ill deal with the electronics tomorrow..

And on that arc welder... OUCH
i read somewhere you could build one out of microwave oven parts,

well its the LONG as it works its good thing

ive seen someone that did that but i stopped long ago at building a variable power and amp supply from clocks and tv parts

i just wanted to be able to play it for now,
one day i will try and REPLACE that section of the keyboard or possibly the whole thing with
a keyboard from another one. (if the other is broke)

the way its constructed, i could actually cut the frame and just replace those 3 keys

i dont want to circuit bent it unless i get another SK-1,
but if i get another, i will hack the crap outta this one.

thats the way to think! claps bravo!

Hehe, class, Ive got an sk-1 and must say I love it, aswell as my VL-Tone LOL
They both deserve a bend, the SK-1 is litrally crying out for it :)
Anyway hope youve got round to fixing yours either way you should bend it LOL

I finally got off my butt and fixed it,

i glued the last A# key back on using a hinge made out of thin flexible plastic
i made the hinge by taking the plastic packaging you get batterys in (the blister pack thats holds the batterys to the cardboard)
i glued 2 layers of rthis togheter, then cutt a notch in the bottom of the key and the frame using my dremel,

after gluing that to the key i glued the key in place, and that worked like a charm,

i left the keyboard like that for a few weeks and got tired of the sharp edgees on the last 2 white keys,
if you look under your keys youll see where the vertical white part is,
i dremeled the keys off all the way to that so i had a straight edge there, then i fabricated new
keytips out of a tongue dipressor using my dremel and a file,

just for reference the white keys are 1.5875cm (0.625in) wide, (i used my caliper :3)

i glued the keytips i made ON END with plain old superglue (cyanoacrylate) and let it sit overnight,

worked like a charm, a little rough, but better then nothing, :D

somewhere i have the schematic (concertmate 500) to the thing, in pdf form
i might bend it in the future, but i dont have any toggle switches or anything at the moment,

thill then i play it as is :-D

happy bending!

Ooooo would say I could use that but I take it thats the service manual in pdf which I already have :)

On the subject of switches and pots, just get on freecycle and look for broken gumpf or stuff that has them, most of the stuff I have here for fixing stuff or modding stuff has come from old broken equipment, though I do ocassionally have to buy certain things so as to get a uniform look or if I need particular ranges voltages and resistances.

If I ever get the time and dont have something else to fix first I will defo be bending this!

Oh and btw class fix job on the keys, the other useful forms of that superglue, though harder to get hold of are good for some other uses as some have higer and lower temperatture ranges aswell as properties for sticking and melting some plastics which is good for kinda welding them which is stonger than just a plain stick :)

Today the popsicle stick ends i made for the last 2 white keys finally fell off... I have to admit they held a LOT longer then i thought they would... I'll just tack them back on when i get another tube of superglue. and i might put a buttress under them made out of hot glue for more support.
That hinge i made on the sharp? its still holding strong! :D