Experimenting with 3D printing
Mystic-Creatures printed my 3D data for a mask project later this year. There will be some experimenting till the 3D data will be optimal for masks.Fotos are © mystic-creatures :)
Category All / All
Species Unspecified / Any
Size 1200 x 550px
File Size 269.5 kB
In theory, yes. In practice, not as much. If we're talking about professional 3D printers, they are very precise (and very expensive).
The common RepRap/MakerBot/UltiMaker kind has precision of about 0.2-0.5 mm. You also have to count with the thermal expansion of the plastic and such. I can do about 0.25-0.35 mm with my printer under good circumstances.
The common RepRap/MakerBot/UltiMaker kind has precision of about 0.2-0.5 mm. You also have to count with the thermal expansion of the plastic and such. I can do about 0.25-0.35 mm with my printer under good circumstances.
Ahh, I was wondering about some of their capabilities. Since I heard they've some that can almost do metal several ideas came to mind about say 3d printed mesh. If you could get a nano sized chain link. It's breathe like skin and you could look into possibly putting say faux fur in it. In theory, it could make a Fursuiter into an armored fur
You definitely could not do nano sized anything with any 3D printing. You can print metal, but not with RepRap like printers, you have to go with laser sintering, not FDM/FFF ones. I'm not sure about their precision, but it would be definitely far from nano technology. But for your stated purposem you don't need such precision. You basically have to print chainmail, which should be definitely possible.
OMG I smell the future in this bad boy. I imagine once 3-D printing comes into people's normal life, lots of artists who draw fur will be doing lots of these 3-D printings. Instead of just using SAI to draw on computer, well maybe SAI in future will be compatible with the tech of 3-D printing. And then, the future art will be a lot improved and more vividly and you can actually touch it.
WOULDN'T IT BE GREAT?!?!?! xD >:3
Are you gonna be on my watching list in the future of 3-D printing, zorryn? The master of 3-D printing -->
zorryn :P
WOULDN'T IT BE GREAT?!?!?! xD >:3
Are you gonna be on my watching list in the future of 3-D printing, zorryn? The master of 3-D printing -->
zorryn :P
depends on the program you use, some "draw" more like sculpting, these are programs like z brush and sculptris, using a tablet to sculpt the lines and forms, thus, drawing, others are more what you think of as modeling, using tools and things in the program itself to make shapes and eventually an entire figure, these are programs like blender and 3DS max, they are different, but all 3d programs.
then there are other programs, art programs for 2d art, these work completely differently an can't be compared much to 3d work, most of them are reliant on a tablet to access their full features, people draw and paint on these programs and their lend themselves to various different things, for example, paint tool sai is pretty exclusively a painting and drawing program that mimics mostly water colour paints and thing like copic markers, it's good at blending but lacks in a few other areas, photoshop is both a painting a photo manipulation program, it's very versatile and can do many different things, it's strong where sai is not but also lacks a few of the things that make sai great, and then there's programs like illustrator, which make vectors, vectors are saved mathematically as data rather than the same way the other images are stored, pixel by pixel, so as you zoom in, no matter how close you get, it will never blur. That means painting is really not going to happen in vector work but things like logos, graphics and very stylized cartoons (think Dexter's lab or MLP) will probably be easier to create due to the smooth even nature of the lines.
this is just the most basic overview I can give o the different types of programs artists use for their work but the point is no matter how much 3d printing advances paint tool sai drawings and it will always be two completely different things and while it's /possible/ for them to overlap saying one will replaced with or so closely linked to the other is fairly inaccurate unless you have a specific correlation that I'm missing that links the two.
then there are other programs, art programs for 2d art, these work completely differently an can't be compared much to 3d work, most of them are reliant on a tablet to access their full features, people draw and paint on these programs and their lend themselves to various different things, for example, paint tool sai is pretty exclusively a painting and drawing program that mimics mostly water colour paints and thing like copic markers, it's good at blending but lacks in a few other areas, photoshop is both a painting a photo manipulation program, it's very versatile and can do many different things, it's strong where sai is not but also lacks a few of the things that make sai great, and then there's programs like illustrator, which make vectors, vectors are saved mathematically as data rather than the same way the other images are stored, pixel by pixel, so as you zoom in, no matter how close you get, it will never blur. That means painting is really not going to happen in vector work but things like logos, graphics and very stylized cartoons (think Dexter's lab or MLP) will probably be easier to create due to the smooth even nature of the lines.
this is just the most basic overview I can give o the different types of programs artists use for their work but the point is no matter how much 3d printing advances paint tool sai drawings and it will always be two completely different things and while it's /possible/ for them to overlap saying one will replaced with or so closely linked to the other is fairly inaccurate unless you have a specific correlation that I'm missing that links the two.
OMG this is actually a lot of information in your reply. Thank you so much!
I can't understand them all now, due to lack of knowladge about these programs, but I'll try to read carefully later. I'm just a college kid who is still learning basic drawing, as I'm amazed by Zorryn's works.
Thanks again for kindly giving me these information! :)
I can't understand them all now, due to lack of knowladge about these programs, but I'll try to read carefully later. I'm just a college kid who is still learning basic drawing, as I'm amazed by Zorryn's works.
Thanks again for kindly giving me these information! :)
Its a bit late, but maybe I can shed some light on your question.
First: You design a 3d model. You can, basically, use whatever tool you like, but I'd recommend, at least for your first attempts, nothing too complicated. Personally, I've used Blender and was fine with it. When yopu creae the model, you have to remember that 3d printers have some limitations, so you have to trick around. Things like, when you creae a sharp edge, make sure that it does not point down or up, as pritners can not just stop printing, then restart. If you have such edges, make sure they are slanted, so when the printer prints them, the material does not simply fall through.
Second: Now that you have an object, save it, then make a copy of it. If you can, try to use the STL or 3MF file format. Blender can, for example, export to STL. I'd prefer STL, as its the industrial standard, but 3MF has, even though it is developed by Microsoft, its advantages too, namely being natively supported by Windows 8.1 and up.
Third: Open the copy with a 3d printing program of your choice. There are some free variants out there, though you often have to be a bit technically versed for it. Me? I'd use netfabb, as its rather uncomplicated for what it can do. Just use the free version for your first attempts. Why this step and why netfabb? Well, you see, your model will have errors. Trust me on this. They all usually have, Stuff like holes in the model, places where the Inside and Outside triangles are switched and so on. And netfabb, even if its just the online model reperature service, is market leader when it comes to fixing those errors either automatically or manually, that is your choice.
Fourth: Now that you model is fixed, load it up in the software that controls your printer. This might be netfabb as well, by he way, but it only might. This software wil convert your model into GCODE, which is, basically, a set of intructions your printer has to follow. Now upload it and see if the model prints right. Be patient in this step, as it usually takes a few attempts. 3d printing is still combined with lots of tinkering. Alternatively, if you're on Windows 8,1 and up, there is a huge chance, that your 3d printer of choice is already supported, including a 3d printing software, which will be fine for your first attempts.
Well, that bascially how the process of 3d printing works. Hope I could shed some light into what steps are needed.
First: You design a 3d model. You can, basically, use whatever tool you like, but I'd recommend, at least for your first attempts, nothing too complicated. Personally, I've used Blender and was fine with it. When yopu creae the model, you have to remember that 3d printers have some limitations, so you have to trick around. Things like, when you creae a sharp edge, make sure that it does not point down or up, as pritners can not just stop printing, then restart. If you have such edges, make sure they are slanted, so when the printer prints them, the material does not simply fall through.
Second: Now that you have an object, save it, then make a copy of it. If you can, try to use the STL or 3MF file format. Blender can, for example, export to STL. I'd prefer STL, as its the industrial standard, but 3MF has, even though it is developed by Microsoft, its advantages too, namely being natively supported by Windows 8.1 and up.
Third: Open the copy with a 3d printing program of your choice. There are some free variants out there, though you often have to be a bit technically versed for it. Me? I'd use netfabb, as its rather uncomplicated for what it can do. Just use the free version for your first attempts. Why this step and why netfabb? Well, you see, your model will have errors. Trust me on this. They all usually have, Stuff like holes in the model, places where the Inside and Outside triangles are switched and so on. And netfabb, even if its just the online model reperature service, is market leader when it comes to fixing those errors either automatically or manually, that is your choice.
Fourth: Now that you model is fixed, load it up in the software that controls your printer. This might be netfabb as well, by he way, but it only might. This software wil convert your model into GCODE, which is, basically, a set of intructions your printer has to follow. Now upload it and see if the model prints right. Be patient in this step, as it usually takes a few attempts. 3d printing is still combined with lots of tinkering. Alternatively, if you're on Windows 8,1 and up, there is a huge chance, that your 3d printer of choice is already supported, including a 3d printing software, which will be fine for your first attempts.
Well, that bascially how the process of 3d printing works. Hope I could shed some light into what steps are needed.
No you're not late. xD Yea, I think I understand what you're saying, even though I've never done it before. You mentioned: design, make a copy, choose a program and fix problems, and print 3D model.
Before I made my first comment on this post, I totally had no idea about it. Now that I kinda have a better idea than before. 3D printing is definitely an interesting topic to me and I hope to take some college classes to learn more about 3D printing.
Thank you and another person and you really help me a lot! ^_^
Before I made my first comment on this post, I totally had no idea about it. Now that I kinda have a better idea than before. 3D printing is definitely an interesting topic to me and I hope to take some college classes to learn more about 3D printing.
Thank you and another person and you really help me a lot! ^_^
du kannst auch zum verspachtel die sparchtel masse von reavel nemen.
für die oberflächen bearbeitung kannst du sehr gut diamant-schleifköpfe und eine dremel benutzen.
aber arbeite hier in eine drehzahlbereich von 2000-5000u/min oder wenn es geht noch langsamer.
dazu eine konstante kühnlung, sonst verklebt dir der schleifkopf
für die oberflächen bearbeitung kannst du sehr gut diamant-schleifköpfe und eine dremel benutzen.
aber arbeite hier in eine drehzahlbereich von 2000-5000u/min oder wenn es geht noch langsamer.
dazu eine konstante kühnlung, sonst verklebt dir der schleifkopf
It looks like either ABS or PLS plastic. ABS is what car dashboards are typically made from and once it cools after printing there is no fumes at all. PLS is made from corn and any fumes from that is going to depend on your opinion on corn but not dangerous. It might react with the glue used for the fur but that is far fetched but possible.
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