At long last, I am releasing my pattern and instructions for you to build your very own plush udder.

https://www.furaffinity.net/view/61178052/
https://www.furaffinity.net/view/61178061/

You will need:
Outer fabric (I use this heavy scuba knit suede from Mood Fabrics). Something stretchy and soft.
Inner faric. Something woven and stiff, but not too thick. Regular cotton works.
Fabric scissors
Needle & thread
Sewing machine
Leather straps (I get them from Kentucky Leather and Hides.
Basic leatherworking tools (you can get a cheap kit on Amazon that works well enough)
Rivets
Belt hardware
Stuffing (I suggest you spring for the "cluster fiberfill" stuffing, or even something more luxurious, because the texture is worth it.)

Step 1: Measure and calculate udder. Measure about how wide and long you want your udder to be, and print out and tape together the pattern. Make a circle that's about how wide you want the udder to sit on your stomach, with the top of the circle sitting just below the navel. Calculate its circumference and divide it by four. That's how long you want the lower, flat edge of the quarter udder pattern to be. If you want a bigger udder, you can adjust the pattern to your liking, stretching or shrinking it so that it will look as big as you like, and still proportional on your body.

Step 2: Cut out fabric. The pattern does not include seam allowances. IMPORTANT: you have to give it a one-inch seam allowance. This'll make sense later. Make sure you align the pattern according to the fabric's stretch directions. The scuba knit suede I linked above has two axes, with one being stretchier than the other. If you want a saggier udder, align the long axis of the pattern with the stretchier direction. If you want a puffier udder, align the short axis with the stretchy direction. Make sure you end up with four pieces of inner fabric and four pieces of outer fabric in the quarter udder pattern. If you really want to save money on stuffing, you can add four extra pieces of inner fabric to make each quarter dual-chambered. You can stuff the outer chamber with the expensive stuffing and the inner chamber with the cheap stuff and it feels just as nice. Do keep in mind that you'll be sewing through a lot of layers, though.

Step 3: Sew. Make a sandwich by putting down one inside piece, one outside piece right-side up, one outside piece right-side down, and finally another inside piece (Make the sandwich double-breaded if you're giving it two chambers). Sew the curve of the right side only. I used a ball-point titanium needle in my machine to get through all the layers at once. Make another sandwich as before. Sew the curve of the left side only. Make the two pieces smooch, then sew their curves together, making sure you're aligning the point with the point. Now, make stitches about a half-inch in from the edge of the seam allowance, parallel to the first four stitches you've made. This is important, because no amount of notching will save you if you skip this step. Turn the whole bag inside out, and now you have the body of the udder. I like to reinforce the X that the middle makes by hand-stitching it.

Step 4: Stuff. I like to add weighted glass beads to the stuffing to make it heavier, but you don't have to. You'll need a surprising amount of stuffing for hyper-sized udders. I can't recommend enough to get the cluster fiberfill instead of regular fiberfill. The difference is immense. Treat yourself. Once it's stuffed, you can stitch across the bottom, straight edges to seal the chambers.

Step 5: Place teats. Find the udder body's best angle and make it the top, marking it with a pin or clip. Print out different teat sizes and shapes in paper until you find one you like. Experiment. When you're ready to make and attach them, start by stitching along the top curve and down to the corner of each teat, right sides together. Roughly place them and measure where their centers are relative to the center X. Make a square-shaped guide to help place each teat evenly. Mark the center of each side of the square guide to center it according to the center x. The corners of the guide will point to where the centers of the teats should be. Use a circle guide or a compass to mark a circle there and, after turning the teats right-side out, use a ladder stitch to stitch the teats down to the circles. Make sure to face every teat's vertical seam down, and to mark each quarter of a circle on both the teat and the udder body to help with tension and bunching. Before fully stitching up the teat, stuff it as you like.

Step 6: The harness begins. Reference this for how it should look. There are five straps to the harness: one around the udder, two around the legs, one around the hips, and one around the waist. You should know the length of the first strap from step 1, so make a loop with a circumference of that length, making sure to account for the length of strap you'll need to rivet or stitch the ends together. Before attaching the ends, make sure to punch holes to stitch along the edges of this strap later. If you're working from someone's measurements, you'll need to do some math, but if you're just measuring on your own body, don't worry too much about exact lengths. You'll need to make four straps, each a little more than a foot long (after being attached to the udder strap), depending on how adjustable you'll want it to be. In these straps, punch several small holes for the prong of the belt about 1/2 inch apart, stopping about two inches from the end of the strap.

Step 7: The harness continues. You're basically trying to create a belt with a chunk taken out of it, attached at both cut ends to the udder strap, with the adjustment holes at your right hip. Imagine you're wearing a belt and the udder strap, upright at your belly, took a cookie cutter slice out of it. Make another belt in the same fashion at your waist height, roughly pinned where it feels natural, or where you've measured the distance between your waist and your hips. Make two more to go around the upper thighs, placing them where they feel comfortable.

Step 8: The leg support strap. This is a Y-shaped strap going from the back of the hip strap to both of the leg straps. This keeps them from drooping down all sad. :( . Cut a strap lengthwise most of the way up, then reinforce the cut where it ends by stitching an X around it. Attach the strap, wrong side to the inside, to the aforementioned spots, making sure it's just high enough to lift the leg straps into the desired position.

Step 9: Stitch harness to udder. Use a saddle stitch to attach the udder strap to the open end of the udder. This will solidify the positions of each strap along it. Make sure that the straps are facing the right way! Then, make a cylinder out of your outside fabric with your circumference from step 1 and a height of about two inches. Stuff it before closing it. Stitch snaps to the inside of the udder and the outside of the cylinder so they attach firmly. Make soft weights out of scrap fabric by filling sacks with weighted beads. Hot-glue the edges to seal them. Remove the plug from the udder and place soft weights or water bottles inside for a realistic heft.

Step 10: Send me pictures. please